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A JOURNEY TO THE 
HOLY LAND 



AND 



Countries of the Mediterranean 



BY 

REV. JOSEPH F. BARTMESS 



Edited from the diary notes by his son 
EDWARD A. BARTMESS 
44 Pink STREET 

YONKERS, - NEW YORK 









LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Tw« Copies Received 

FEB 6 1907 

Copyright Entry 

LASS CU XXc.,J|p. 

COFY B. 



i 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1907. 

By EDWARD A. BART MESS, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



To 

tl\ose vJY\o 

are interested iri 

foreign travel 

arid 

to all tr\ose 

dear relatives and friends 

to ^r^orri rr\y father, at sonqe tirr\e 

during l\is long and faithful rc\inistry 

carried tl\e blessed gospel iiqessage, 

tr\is book is rnost 

faithfully inscribed 

by 

f|is son. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 
Departure from home 1 

CHAPTER II. 
Across the Atlantic, the ocean voyage.— Incidents 
at sea 4 

CHAPTER III. 
The Island of Madeira, and sea voyage to Gibraltar 13 

CHAPTER IV. 

Gibraltar. The fortress, Neutral Ground, beggars, 

and sail on the Mediterranean to Algiers 18 

CHAPTER V. 
Algeria. Mosques, veiled women, flowers, fruits, 
beggars, bakshish 23 

CHAPTER VI. 
The Island of Malta. Valetta. Citta Vecchia, the 
Cathedral, harbor, warships, people, customs, 
fortress, sail on the Mediterranean to Alex- 
andria 27 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Land of Egypt. Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, 
Mohammedan worship, the Nile, Hehopohs, 
Egyptian scenes 35 



VI CONTENTS 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Palestine. Landing at Joppa, Valley of Sharon, 
Ramleh, Valley of Ajalon, Judean Hills, Jeru- 
salem, Bethany, Jordan, Jericho, Bethlehem, 
Tomb of Rachel, Trinket venders, Pool of 
Bethsaida, Mount of Olives, the sail to Caifa, 
Mt. Carmel, Nazareth, Cana, Hermon, Ti- 
berias, Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Prelimi- 
naries of a wedding, Syria 49 

CHAPTER IX. 
Smyrna. Tomb of Polycarp? A walk through the 

city 71 

CHAPTER X. 
Constantinople. The city, Saint Sophia, the Palace, 

Robert College, the Turk 74 

CHAPTER XL 
Athens. The Acropolis, Mars' Hill, ruins, sail to 
Naples 82 

CHAPTER XII. 
Naples and Pompeii. Poem, "The Roman Sentinel," 
journey to Rome 87 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Rome. Its interesting ruins, works of art, St. 
Peter's Cathedral, the Forum, the Coliseum, 
Pincian Hill, Vestal Virgins, bad news from 
our ship, flight from Rome 95 

CHAPTER XIV. 
From Rome to London. Florence, The Alps, Paris, 

English Channel, London, Liverpool 103 

CHAPTER XV. 
Homeward Bound. Rough seas, life aboard ship, 
funeral in mid-ocean, preaching at sea, my 
native land, Home 108 



• PREFACE. 

1WTY father kept his diaries, private papers, and 
other records in a black walnut box which 
was made and presented to him by Mr. Jacob 
Hahn. At irregular periods I find myself in a 
retrospective mood which takes me to this box; 
and as I look over its contents, I always find 
something to interest, sadden and depress, as 
well as much to gladden, uplift and inspire. 

No doubt all have experienced the sweet sad- 
ness of reading old letters of departed dear ones. 
How they stir the deep springs of our being, 
and we do not wish to part from them. How 
they sometimes bring a dimness to the eyes, and 
yet we cling to them. 

One day while reading from two small memor- 
anda books, which my father used on his trip to 
the Holy Land, it occurred to me to publish his 
notes in book form, believing that his relatives 
and many old friends would find pleasure in pos- 
sessing his own daily record of the trip. Those 
interested in foreign travel might also enjoy the 
book. 

To the pseudo-critic, I would say that this 
book, from its nature, precludes any pretense of 
literary merit; therefore do not read it with 



Vlll PREFACE 

that end in view — your time is too precious. To 
the real critic I say, "Blessed are the merciful." 

In perusing these pages, the kind reader will 
remember that this is not intended to be a book 
of reference, or an instructive treatise on foreign 
travel, but it is humbly offered as a remembrancer 
of my father, and gives thoughts and items of in- 
formation which came to him, and were jotted 
down while visiting each point of interest. 

Subjects are never treated analytically, synthet- 
ically or logically in a memorandum book or 
diary, and the topics often end abruptly to be 
resumed anon, out of place and connection. Some 
subjects which the reader may think deserve 
more space, may be scarcely mentioned, and situ- 
ations, which he may desire more fully explained, 
are left to his conjecture. In such cases, the in- 
dulgent reader need only remember that he is 
reading, so far as the thought is concerned, 
simply diary notes, which were made hurriedly on 
the spot, or written at night after the fatigue of 
a day's travel. 

I know, from experience, that note-taking, 
while sight-seeing is usually irksome and few per- 
sons make memoranda ; and again, I have seen 
some tourists spending so much time on Icarian 
flights of rhetoric in their notes, that they had 
no eyes or time for the objects of their travel. 
The idea that his diary notes would some day 



PREFACE IX 

appear in print never entered my father's mind. 
I have found some places in the notes, where I 
should like to ask questions, but, alas, it is too 
late. Such books contain only the raw material 
necessary to the finished product. It has been my 
aim to preserve, as far as possible, the language 
used in the original notes, and thus retain the 
element of personality. 

As my mind has followed the record from 
first to last, line by line, the familiar phrasing of 
the thoughts has given precious companionship to 
the work, and now as it is finished, I lay down 
the manuscript with reluctance, while the heart 
feels the loneliness of separation. 

If the reader of this volume, besides gaining a 
little knowledge, derives only a small portion of 
the pleasure in its perusal that has come to me in 
the preparation of its pages, I shall be sincerely 
grateful. If, in the homes of my father's friends, 
and others, this book becomes the unveiling of 
a tablet to his memory, it shall accomplish that 
whereunto it is sent. 



Edward A. Bartmess, 



Yonkers, New York, 
November. 1906. 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 

Joseph Francis Bartmess, son of Jacob and 
Sophia Bartmess was born Sept. 14, 1837, a t * ne 
old homestead two miles west of Dayton, Tippe- 
canoe County, Indiana. He was the youngest of 
nine children. His early life was spent on the 
farm of his widowed mother, his father having 
died in 1847. He was converted in 1849, under 
the preaching of Rev. John Surran, and was 
baptized April 25, 1865. After a course of study, 
he received Quarterly Conference license to 
preach April 22, 1865, at Dayton, Ind., H. A. 
Snepp, Presiding Elder. He had already preached 
his first sermon Feb. to, T865, taking his text 
from Acts 24:24. 

On Sept. 13, 1859, he was married to Mary 
Brodie. of Dayton, lnd., who in after years 
proved many times that she possessed all the vir- 
tues of a devoted wife, and all the graces of a 
loving and tender mother. 

He began his ministry in the church of the 
United Brethren in Christ Sept. 21, 1866, having 
been admitted to the St. Joseph Conference at its 
session in Bourbon, Ind. He was ordained Oct. 
10, 1868, at the session of the Conference held 
by Bishop Weaver at Buchanan, Mich. He con- 



Xll BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 

tinued his ministerial work unceasingly, and with 
unflagging energy, for thirty years, in Northern 
Indiana and Southern Michigan, taking few vaca- 
tions. During this time he was never absent from 
any Annual Conference, was Presiding Elder 
nine years, was three times elected to the General 
Conference, and was also appointed a director of 
the Board of Missions. At the session of Con- 
ference held in September, 1895, ne did not ac- 
cept a regular assignment, and was appointed 
Conference Evangelist. 

In the autumn and winter of 1895, he traveled 
extensively in the West, visiting and preaching in 
many of the Pacific coast churches. 

In an issue of the Religions Telescope in 1899, 
we find an article entitled "Honored Names," 
from which we quote the following : 

"The above face is a familiar one in a majority 
of the homes in St. Joseph Conference. Rev. J. 
F. Bartmess was born in Tippecanoe County, In- 
diana. His early life was spent on the farm 
where the foundation of the rugged physical con- 
stitution which he possesses was laid .... 
His first field of labor was Galveston, Ind., cir- 
cuit. . . . Mr. Bartmess is a preacher of un- 
usual ability, possessing a good voice and excel- 
lent address. . . . He evidently retains much 
of his youthful buoyancy, and strength of body 
and mind, and while he is not serving a charge 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Xlil 

this year, there is no reason why he should not 
still render many years of good service to Christ 
and the church." 

For the substance of what follows in single 
quotation marks, we are indebted to the memorial 
article of Rev. L. A. Townsend, in the Dec. 13, 
1905. issue of the Religious Telescope. 'He was 
a member of the local church of Buchanan 35 
years, and at three different times served the 
church as pastor. He always loved his church 
home, which was a dear place to him. When the 
conference boundaries were changed by the Gen- 
eral Conference in 1901, and the society of which 
he was a member was transferred from the St. 
Joseph to the Michigan Conference, he cheerfully 
made the sacrifice, although it was tearing the 
heart strings of love and affection, to leave the 
work and workers of the St. Joseph Conference. 
He attended the Michigan Conference held at 
Lake Odessa in October, 1901, and was cheer- 
fully welcomed into the fellowship of the brethren. 
At this session of the Conference, by re- 
quest, he gave a very inspiring lecture on his 
trip to the Holy Land. 

This was the first and last time that Michigan 
Conference had the privilege of meeting him in 
annual session. He was not very strong, having 
received a light stroke of paralysis Aug. 19, 1901, 
from which he had only partially recovered. On 



XIV BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 

the first Sunday in the year 1902 he attended 
church for the last time. On this occasion he 
taught his large class of young people in the Sun- 
day School, but before another Sunday he had 
received the second stroke, which rendered him 
entirely helpless on the left side. Believing the 
end to be near, he sent for his good friend, Rev. 
R. P. Burton, and with him arranged every detail 
for the funeral service. 

'After weeks had passed, the health of his 
faithful wife began to fail under the awful strain, 
and the oldest son decided that his father should 
be removed to the St. John's Riverside Hos- 
pital, Yonkers, N. Y. This was done, Mrs. Bart- 
mess accompanying her husband East, and living 
at her son's home, not far from the hospital.' 

In September of 1902 the household effects 
were sold, the library being given away, and the 
old homestead itself offered for sale. The loving 
wife continued her daily visits to the bedside of 
the afflicted one, although herself under a physi- 
cian's care, until advised to leave Eastern climate. 
Her return West was too late for climatic 
changes to have any beneficial effect, and on Feb. 
7, 1903, her gentle spirit returned to the God who 
gave it. It was a sorrowful duty to tell an af- 
flicted father the sad news of a mother's death, 
and later to announce the death of Rev. Burton, 
of whom previous mention has been made. 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH XV 

As his condition showed little change, in April, 
1904, Rev. Bartmess was removed to that noble 
institution in New York City — The Home for In- 
curables, where every comfort of a Christian 
home was afforded him. 

During his years of illness, although deep in 
the shadow, the same hopeful spirit so character- 
istic of his life, often shone forth in his conver- 
sation. In one instance, a request was sent from 
an upstairs ward in which the patients were lonely 
and discouraged, to have him brought to them in 
his wheel chair to speak to them words of good 
cheer. On one occasion he was found teaching 
the Lord's Prayer and Twenty-third Psalm to a 
young man who did not know them, and who died 
a few clays later. At another time the patients 
in another ward, feeling very despondent, asked 
him if he would not offer prayer in their behalf. 
This he did with great fervor, as he lay helpless 
upon his bed. Many other similar incidents, 
which illustrate his patience, courage and faith 
while tried year after year in the crucible of af- 
fliction, might be mentioned. 

He was happy to see friends and visitors who 
came to his bedside, and always welcomed the 
clergy, both Protestant and Catholic. All these 
visits, with those of his son and relatives were 
bright gleamings of sunshine in his long dark day. 
He loved, as a brother, the Rev. Charles A. Ash- 



XVI BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 

mead, who, for a certain period, called to see him 
almost daily, and also administered the Commun- 
ion Service. 

The gospel which he had preached so long to 
others, comforted and sustained him now. 
Though weak in body, he possessed a strong and 
abiding faith in God which never once wavered. 
For months he lingered on the borderland be- 
tween two worlds, waiting, watching, catching 
faint glimpses of the Heaven beyond, and praying 
to depart. On Sunday morning, Nov. 5, 1905, 
he heard the Master's call, and passed to his re- 
ward. The funeral services were held in the 
church of which he was a member, and interment 
was made beside his beloved wife and daughter, 
in Oakridge Cemetery, near the old home in 
Michigan. 

"How beautiful it is for man to die 
Upon the walls of Zion ! to be called 

Like a watch-worn and weary sentinel, 
To put his armor off, and rest — in Heaven. 

His heart was with Jerusalem; and strong 
As was a mother's love, and the sweet ties 

Religion makes so beautiful at home, 
He flung them from him in his eager race, 

And sought the broken people of his God, 
To preach to them of Jesus." 

— Edward A. Bartmess. 



CHAPTER I. 

OUTWARD BOUND. 

"When forced to part from those we love, 
Though sure to meet to-morrow, 

We yet a kind of anguish prove, 
And feel a touch of sorrow. 

But oh! what words can paint the fears, 
When from those friends we sever, 

Perhaps to part for months — for years — 
Perhaps to part forever." — Anon. 

A long time was spent in deciding, and then 
the task of getting ready began. What was 
requisite for such a long trip from home, etc. 
All these things finally accomplished, I, on Jan. 
23, 1900, bade farewell to loved ones at home, and 
boarded the 5:20 p. m. train at Buchanan, Mich., 
for Buffalo, N. Y. T reached Buffalo next morn- 
ing in time for the train for Yonkers, N. Y. On 
arriving, my daughter-in-law met me at the train 
and accompanied me to their home. I spent a 
number of days very pleasantly visiting here. We 
attended church on Sunday, and I was pleased to 
hear Rev. George Pentecost, formerly of London, 
England, preach a masterly discourse on the "Im- 
portance of the New Birth." His language was 
clear, ornate, and forceful. I also attended a 
number of entertainments, and remember par- 



2 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

ticularly the unique drama of Ben Hur. I visited 
the Museum of Natural History and Library. 

At last the day so long talked of, and looked 
for with so much interest, dawned, the day of 
sailing. My son, Edward, accompanied me to the 
city and in the Grand Central Station in New 
York City, I bade him good-bye, and boarded a 
special train chartered by the manager of the 
cruise, and was off for Boston. Passing through 
many beautiful villages and cities, we reached 
Boston safely, and on the eve of January 31, 1900, 
we embarked on the New England, a splendid 
steamship of the Dominion Line. She was built 
in Belfast, Ireland, in 1898. Length 565 feet, 
breadth of beam, 59 feet. She has six decks, 215 
state rooms, twin screw propellers, speed 17 knots, 
carrying capacity 11,000 tons, and a crew of 269. 
This vessel has a bilge keel to prevent rolling. 
She is made entirely of boiler steel, with im- 
mense iron braces, like bridge timber, to support 
all its parts. The immense engines are almost 
beyond our conception in magnitude and strength. 
In the many different departments, parlors, 
staterooms and dining rooms, the furniture is 
elegant. This ship is said to have made the 
fastest time between Liverpool and Boston. 
She had already made twenty voyages. 

The party of tourists numbered 525, all aglow 
with the prospect of a grand trip to the Orient. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 3 

Some of the places to be visited are as follows : 
Isle of Madeira, Gibraltar, Algiers, Malta, Val- 
etta, Citta Vecchia, Alexandria, Cairo, The Pyra- 
mids, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Jericho, Jordan, Dead Sea, 
Bethlehem, Bethany, Caifa, Mt. Carmel, Naz- 
areth, Gallilee, Beyrout, Smyrna, Cypress, 
Rhodes, Constantinople, Piraeus, Athens, Naples, 
Pompeii, Rome, Ville Franche, Nice, Monte 
Carlo, the Riviera. 



A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 



CHAPTER II. 



ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 

"Roll on thou deep and dark blue ocean — roll — 
Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain — 
Man marks the earth with ruin, his control — 
Stops with the shore." — Byron. 

On the morning of February I, 1900, with all 
on board, the steamship New England left Bos- 
ton harbor on her long cruise to the above named 
places. I was impressed by the large number of 
visitors who came to say farewell to their de- 
parting friends. Very few shed tears, but I saw 
many an anxious look, and loving caress, which 
said in words not to be misunderstood, how 
hard it was to say good-bye. When the last 
visitor was gotten ashore, which required some 
time, the gangway was lifted and the ponderous 
engines began the work of driving the vessel 
across the Atlantic. It was 2,700 miles to the 
Isle of Madeira, which was to be our first stop 
after leaving Boston. 

There were nearly three hundred ladies aboard. 
There were fifty-two clergymen and a number of 
eminent physicians. While I am on this part 
of the description, I will say to the credit of the 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 5 

Steamship Company, that the food is the very 
best in variety and abundance. 

Now I must begin my daily record. 

Feb. i : This is the evening of the first 
day out at sea. It has been very cold, but the 
sea has been kind to me. I have, however, seen 
a large number indisposed. Although the tables 
are filled with every variety of food to tempt the 
palate, many seats are vacant. The flowers on 
the table, pinks and roses, are beautiful and fra- 
grant. The ship has been rolling for some time, 
but I have not missed a meal. We have run 340 
knots to-day. 

Feb. 2 : I must record that the sea was rough 
all through the night, but a little more quiet this 
morning. The passengers are recovering some- 
what, and more are present at the meals. Lunch 
is over now, and everyone seems to feel well. A 
lady passenger told the following story: "An 
Irishman had received some favor from a gen- 
tleman, and the Irishman said he hoped the 
gentleman would live to eat the hen that scratched 
the dirt upon his grave." Everyone is full of 
mirth, singing, promenading, etc., and various 
other amusements are in order after meals. To- 
day we sighted a ship, but whence it came, or 
whither bound, we shall never know. Such are 
our lives on the great ocean on which we are 
all sailing. We catch a glimpse of each other, 



6 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

pass, and see each other no more. This evening 
our log registers 342 knots. 

Feb. 3 : This morning the weather is much 
warmer. I have had a good rest, slept well, and 
feel refreshed. The ship is now making good 
time. I am eating three meals a day. We have 
run 682 knots and I am still on deck. Our party 
at the table consists of Rev. W. H. Penhallegon, 
Airs. Emma Ritchie and daughter, Miss A. Eu- 
genie Vater, of Lafayette, Ind., Miss Anna R. 
Wilson, of Portland, Oregon, Mrs. Jane W. 
Hall, of Pasadena, Cal., Prof. Lowell M. Mc- 
Afee, Parkville, Mo., a maiden lady whose name 
I do not recall, and the writer. We represent 
seven states. 

To-day we are beginning to realize that we are 
far out at sea, and on a long voyage. We are cut 
off from every portion of the world save the wild 
waste of waters. Everything is so pleasant on 
shipboard that it drives away loneliness. How 
much we feel indebted to our Heavenly Father, 
who rules in righteousness and tender love. 

Feb. 4: This is Sunday. We sailed 362 
knots during the last 24 hours. I am quite well, 
and thinking of home and loved ones. 

"As slow our ship her foamy track 
Against the wind was cleaving, 

Her trembling pennant still looked back 
To that dear land 'twas leaving. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 7 

So loathe we part from all we love, 
From ?.ll the links that bind us; 

So turn our hearts where'er we rove 
To those we've left behind us." 

I have a very genial room-mate, Rev. Dr. 
Noble, formerly pastor of a church in San Fran- 
cisco. He served the Congregational Church in 
that city for fourteen years. He told me of his 
being instrumental in the conversion of Com- 
mander Phillips, of the U. S. N. This is the 
Commander who, in the Spanish-American war, 
so beautifully manifested a Christian spirit in 
devoutly thanking God for victory for the right. 
Dr. Noble makes it very pleasant for me. He 
is a good conversationalist, and has had a wide 
range of experience. 

This is a beautiful day. The air and sun are 
conducive to our health. O, how mighty are 
the works of the great Creator. This wonderful 
ocean, how vast, how deep, how mysterious. I 
am thinking of home and the dear ones who have 
so kindly aided in permitting and making it 
possible for me to take this cruise to the Orient. 

It is now 12:15 p. m. The Rev. Dr. Barbour, 
of Rochester, N. Y., Baptist, preached a fine 
sermon which was full of spiritual power. His 
theme was Faith and Love. On being introduced, 
it was stated that he was pastor of one of the 
largest churches in America. I am recording this 



8 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

day as a typical southern California day. The 
sea is very smooth, and our great steel-clad 
floating palace is running so steadily, that one 
can read and write with ease. But, how soon a 
change may come. Old Neptune has been toying 
with us as a cat with the poor little victimized 
mouse. We retire, trusting in Him who doeth 
all things well. 

Feb. 5 : Three hundred and seventy-five knots. 
During the night a terrific gale broke upon us, 
and we were tossed on mountain waves. Not 
much sleep. Our satchels slid from one side of 
our stateroom to the other. This morning the 
ocean presents a scene of indescribable grandeur. 
A number of times the ship took water, as wave 
after wave broke over the upper decks. I have 
seen the ocean in its strength lifting this ship 
as though it were only a toy. Our morning 
meal was eaten with much difficulty. The plates 
and other dishes, were set in guards, or frames, 
to prevent accident; but at times it seemed that 
everything would be smashed. This is an expe- 
rience not soon to be forgotten, and a good 
educator for the party. O, thou mighty deep, so 
placid at times, but now lifted into snow-capped 
mountain waves and traversed by deep canons 
into which our ship must plunge. Last evening, 
while at dinner, a giant wave struck the ship 
with the report of a cannon, and made her trem- 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 9 

ble fore and aft. O, what power in an ocean 
wave. 

Rev. Myers, of Brooklyn, N. Y., gave a lecture 
in the forward salon, on the Isle of Madeira, and 
the City of Algiers. He spoke of the fruits and 
flowers, and the queer mode of travel in Madeira 
by sledges drawn by bullocks. He spoke of the 
degradation of women in Algiers, and compared 
their condition with the liberty of the wives and 
daughters of America. May God hasten the 
day when "Life, Liberty and the pursuit of happi- 
ness will be shared equally by all." 

Feb. 6: Three hundred and sixty-five knots. 
The sea is still running high. This morning far 
away we saw the white wings of a sailing ship, 
but whither bound, we shall never know. I am 
feeling quite well.' Passengers are rapidly recov- 
ering and becoming acquainted. This afternoon 
it is more calm. The ocean air has an invigorat- 
ing effect. One sees some funny things and 
hears droll expressions. A gentleman said that 
to-day a woman ran to the ship's railing when it 
was standing at an angle of 45 degrees, and 
cried out, "O, if I were only on old terra cotta 
again, I'm sure I would stay there." She evi- 
dently meant to say terra firma. 

We have sailed 1,800 miles, 900 more and we 
shall have reached Madeira. The sea at this 
point has presented what seemed to be some 



10 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

beautiful pictures. Far out, we saw what ap- 
peared to be lakes of silver, bordered with beau- 
tiful groves, and having great snow-capped 
mountains in the background. This was a 
mirage. As I look out on the expanse of waters, I 
think how little the route we are pursuing has 
ever been taken by man, and that for thousands 
of years, the waves were oscillating and ever 
changing unseen, while in the vast hidden depths 
below, lie mysteries never to be revealed. 

I write these lines as 1 sit in the magnificent 
forward dining salon. While the good ship 
speeds on I must be indulged in giving an out- 
line of this extraordinary room. In the centre 
above there is a glass dome which is richly deco- 
rated in ebony and gold. The walls are finished 
in light wood, resembling maple, exquisitely 
carved and highly polished. The revolving chairs 
for the table are placed there permanently with 
strong bolts. They are also of light-colored 
wood, upholstered, and carved to correspond 
with the elaborate carving which decorates the 
entire room. 

Feb. 7 : Three hundred and eighty knots. 
We expect to arrive at Madeira at 2 o'clock 
p. m. to-morrow. Eight days out of sight of 
land makes us long for ''Cities which have foun- 
dations." This has been a beautiful day of golden 
sunshine, southerly winds, and sea comparatively 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 11 

smooth, while the ship sails like a seagull on the 



"O, happy ship, 

To rise and dip 

With the blue crystal at your lip." 

I am feeling well, having just partaken of a 
sumptuous repast. The party are in high spirits 
with the prospect of seeing land. The music on 
board to-day is unusually fine. I look out and 
can see nothing but a wide expanse of water. I 
look within and all is life and animation. How 
thankful I am for God's protecting and keeping 
power. Some wish me to abandon the side trip 
to Galilee, and go by way of Samaria; but I 
fear seven days of horseback riding would not 
be for the best. I begin to feel that I am quite 
a sailor. 

Someone has said that sea sickness is a com- 
posite of la grippe, toothache, railroad accident, 
gunshot wound, nightmare, with the pangs of 
disappointed love. The beautiful sunshine has 
been succeeded by clouds. Our good ship is 
pushing against head winds and a heavy sea. 
There are some indications of a storm, but the 
passengers are promenading the decks for exer- 
cise, and as a preparation for the evening meal. 

Feb. 8: This is a beautiful morning, warm 
and bright. The sea is calm. The ship runs 



12 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

steady, with a slight quivering caused by the 
action of the propellors. She cleaves the emerald 
wave and the pulsations of her great iron heart 
are felt by all. The passengers are in high 
hopes of seeing land once more, as the ship offi- 
cers inform us that we shall reach Madeira at 
2:30 p. m. to-day. 

I have heard it said that after several days at sea, 
one becomes lonely, but it is not so on the New 
England. All is life, and many friendships are 
made. My room-mate. Dr. Noble, is compan- 
ionable. I have become acquainted with a num- 
ber of other people who are very companionable. 
Well, I must go on deck and bathe in the golden 
sunshine and breathe the fragrant air as it floats 
to us from the summer land of Madeira. It was 
stated this morning at breakfast that Columbus 
visited this island many years ago, • and while 
there, married the daughter of a prominent of- 
ficial. It was at Madeira that he conceived the 
idea of his great sea voyage which resulted in 
the discovery of the New World. 

The cry of land ahead is heard. One can 
scarcely realize it after so many days at sea, but 
the passengers are sure. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 13 



CHAPTER III. 



THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA. 

"Where summer sings and never dies, 
O'erveiled with vines, 

She glows and shines 
Among her future oil and wines." — Read. 



I turn my eyes in the direction of our hopes, 
and there, to my delight, I can discern the out- 
lines of the beautiful Isle of Madeira. — There she 
is, like a rare gem of beauty, pinned on the bosom 
of the ocean. The ship speeds on, and soon we 
see the snow white villages as they nestle on the 
terraces of the great sloping sides of an elevation 
6,000 feet above the level of the ocean. With my 
field glasses I can see a picture of exquisite 
beauty. Who has not heard of the vineyards and 
Madeira wine of this island. Here also are flow- 
ers in rich profusion. Tropical fruits, figs, 
oranges, lemons, and many others peculiar to such 
a climate. I shall never forget the flowers, for 
I have not seen such in my home land. Our good 
ship has anchored three-quarters of a mile out 
from the island, and now the whole face of the 
bay is swarming with row boats to take us ashore. 
Now, what is to be done as the sea is running 



14 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

high here, and the boats bob up and down like 
corks. The faint-hearted will not venture, but 
those who do, are well repaid. The bugle sounds 
for breakfast, and I defer writing. 

Breakfast over. I have come to the forward 
salon to finish the description of our landing. 
On reaching the shore, which required half an 
hour hard rowing by the natives, we were met 
by a Portuguese guide carrying an American flag. 
This guide immediately took us under his care. 
Lined up on the shore was a long row of ox 
carts to take the passengers over the city of 
Funchal, which is the capital of Madeira. The 
houses, built of stone, are usually white. The 
streets are narrow and paved with small stones, 
blue, white and red, taken from the seashore. 
These are arranged in the pavement in a manner 
which shows some artistic skill, and present a 
very pretty appearance. 

Here are beggars of all descriptions. Some 
are terribly deformed ; others blind. Some are 
little children of tender years, and others very 
aged. These beset us at all times and became 
very annoying, but it seemed useless to give, for 
there would be no end to their begging. The ox 
sledges were rather pretty. The runners were 
decorated with highly colored paints, and the 
boxes, or beds, were made of bamboo, richly 
upholstered, and having a canopy top. The run- 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 15 

ners are kept well oiled to make them slip over 
the stone-paved streets. They are oiled fre- 
quently by a lad using a little bag of rags soaked 
in oil. While the sledge is in motion he places 
the bag in front of one of the runners and lets it 
run over, then springs to the other side and does 
the same to the other runner, and so keeps both 
runners well lubricated. This makes them glide 
easily over the hard pavement. I saw only one 
span of horses and one vehicle with wheels on the 
island. 

We visited the Casino, also the Cathedral, built 
360 years ago. It is a quaint old structure and 
presented an oriental appearance. The Treasury 
and post office were also visited. At the latter 
place we did some writing and mailing of postal 
cards. To deposit these cards in the mail, we 
were obliged to go outside of the building, raise 
an iron flap door in the wall, and there drop in 
our mail. 

Night comes on, and we are compelled to re- 
turn to the ship, which we did with some reluc- 
tance, all wishing we could have had more time 
on this interesting island. However, we all 
reached our ship in safety and rested sweetly dur- 
ing the night. 

Feb. 9: This is a delightful morning. The 
sky is clear and the sun shines with a golden 
lustre peculiar to the tropics. Our next stop 



16 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

will be at Gibraltar. There we shall send more 
mail to our friends at home. O, America seems 
so far away, and yet so dear. This is an English 
ship and carries the flag of that nation, but as it 
has aboard a large party of Americans, it also 
flies the American flag. As we look at the stars 
and stripes floating from the top of the mast, we 
feel like singing "My Country, 'Tis of Thee." 
The passengers are quiet to-day. As w T e speed 
along, some are reading, some sleeping, some 
playing shuffle-board, others engaged in con- 
versation. 

I remember one year ago to-day, the mercury 
registered 26 degrees below zero at home, while 
here it is 70 above. The ocean is calm, and far 
away has the appearance of one of our western 
prairies. This forenoon we saw a sail. It is re- 
markable how a single craft will attract atten- 
tion while out on the wide waste of water. The 
distance from Madeira to Gibraltar is 610 miles. 

Before I started on this journey, a pessimistic 
person told me that it would be "so very monot- 
onous and gloomy at sea," but I can say that time 
has not dragged heavily along. On the contrary, 
there have been many things to entertain and in- 
struct. 

Feb. 10: Far out at sea. The morning - is 
delightful, with breeze soft as velvet. The sky 
clear, save a few fleecy clouds floating far away. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 17 

The golden sunlight causes the crested waves to 
sparkle like diamonds of frost upon the mountain. 
We are due at Gibraltar at i p. m. The sea for 
several days has dealt very kindly with us. Save 
a slight cold, I am well. At Gibraltar we expect 
to land by small boats and remain ashore until 
ii p. m. Our table had its full number of pas- 
sengers this morning, and all blend in a fraternal 
bond of friendship. 

Land is now in sight. Our good ship sails on 
with Morocco on our right, and Portugal on our 
left. We shall soon be in the Strait. A 
strange appearance is seen in the water. It has 
suddenly changed from a dark blue to a light 
green color. Some say it is because the water is 
becoming shallow. Now I can see the light houses 
and the green hills on the shores of Africa, and I 
can also see the mountains of Portugal. Africa, 
how strange that sounds. 

How strange to me that I am permitted to see 
these historic shores. I think of Oliver Hadley, 
who, when a young minister, left our Conference 
and sailed for Africa to do mission work on the 
dark continent. This work soon cost him his 
life. 



18 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 



CHAPTER IV. 

GIBRALTAR. 
"The Pillars of Hercules." 
Well, here we are in the Strait of Gibraltar, 
On the coast of Spain I see villages. The houses 
appear white. On the African side I see vast 
mountains lifting their summits in awful gran- 
deur above the clouds. The passengers are 
greatly excited over the scenery. I can see the 
beautiful green valleys of Morocco. This is his- 
toric ground, and these are eminently historic 
waters. Here some of the greatest battles of the 
past have been fought. Their names are recorded 
in history. We are now passing a town called 
Tariffa, a seaport of Spain. Some tell us that 
here is where the word tariff originated, as they 
once charged custom when vessels landed. Our 
good ship reached her anchorage on time. Be- 
cause of her immense size she cannot dock, and 
is anchored one mile off shore. We were taken 
to land in steam tenders. 

This day I have set my feet for the first time 
on the shores of Europe. Guides met us at the 
gateway to conduct us to the different places of 
interest. 

Gibraltar, a city of 20,000 inhabitants, is built 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 19 

on the northwest side of a great rock, which is a 
mountain projecting into the sea. First we vis- 
ited the National Garden. It is a rare treat for a 
lot of tired, sea-tossed tourists to stroll through 
those beautiful flower festooned walks. Tropical 
fruits and flowers are seen everywhere. The 
streets, like those of Funchal, are paved with 
stone. 

In visiting the fortifications, which can only be 
done on certain days, we were greatly impressed 
with the strength of this mighty fortress. It 
looks as though no military power is able to re- 
duce it. From every point of the compass, great 
frowning cannon give warning to any approach- 
ing foe. We went through the great serpentine 
galleries, which are vast tunnels cut in the rock 
and ascending toward the top. At certain points 
along these galleries are rooms from which holes 
are cut and through which point the cannon. It 
is said there are 75 miles of tunnels in the great 
fortification of Gibraltar. To rightly appreciate 
it, one should visit the place and see its great- 
ness. Here are some English hotels which are 
first class. 

After visiting a number of the shops and stores, 
kept principally by English, we went over into 
Spain. To do this, we must pass over what is 
known as Neutral Ground. This is a small tract of 
land which is the dividing space between two 



20 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

nations. Here were stationed on one side the 
English guards, in their scarlet uniforms protect- 
ing the interests of England, while on the other 
side were Spanish guards protecting the interests 
of Spain. As I looked at the latter swarthy men, 
I could not help but "Remember the Maine." 
The town which we visited in Spain is called 
Lenia. It is a filthy place, revealing the most 
squalid poverty. 

We were beset with beggars on every side. 
Many were blind. I am told their eyes were 
destroyed when they were young, by insects, 
which, for some superstitious notion, the moth- 
ers refused to drive away. Articles offered for 
sale, were inferior to those on the other side of 
Neutral Ground under the flag of England. I 
did not see a pleasing face in this part of Spain. 
Articles for sale on the English side are much 
cheaper, hence many of the people cross over 
to Gibraltar to do some of their shopping, but 
they are robbed on their return by the Spanish 
officials. It makes no difference if the purchaser 
he very poor. In the evening we returned to our 
ship, tired, but well satisfied with our visit ashore. 

We sailed at 1 1 130 that night. I spent the 
evening on deck conversing with friends until a 
late hour. The moon arose in silver splendor, 
and from a cloudless sky poured a flood of light 
over the ocean. We sat for a long time watching 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 21 

the slowly receding form Of the fortress rock, 
which guards the entrance to the Mediterranean 
Sea. 

Feb. 1 1 : We have entered and are now sailing 
on the classic waters of the Mediterranean. All 
through the night our ship has run as if she had 
been a boat on a river, with no movement except 
straight ahead at the rate of 17 knots an hour.. 
This a. m. we find ourselves well out at sea, but 
we can yet discern the snow covered mountains in 
Spain. They are called the Sierra Nevadas, the 
same as those of our own country. I presume 
the Spaniards named both. Many of the pas- 
sengers who were not accustomed to seeing 
mountains, thought they were great white clouds. 

To-day I attended religious services in the for- 
ward salon. Rev. McLein, of New Haven, Conn., 
preached from John 17:19, "For Their Sakes I 
Sanctify Myself." The sermon was plain, simple 
and practical. Our ship sails on. What memo- 
ries cluster around this great sea. Here' were 
many incidents of sacred story. On this sea the 
prophet Jonah, shipped from Joppa for a city in 
Spain called Tarshish. Here on these shores, 
cities have flourished and fallen back into ob- 
livion, except as they are traced on the pages of 
history. 

Our people in America are taking their noon- 
day meal, while we are at supper. The air is 



22 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

cooler than at Madeira. The passengers are ob- 
serving the Sabbath, which is the same to the 
Christian, whether on sea or land. Cleaving the 
waters of the Mediterranean, Spain on one side, 
Africa on the other. Our next stop will be Al- 
geria. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 23 



CHAPTER V. 

ALGERIA. 

"A soldier of the Legion lay dying in Algiers, 
There was lack of woman's nursing, there was dearth 
of woman's tears." — Norton. 

Feb. 12 : We have had a fine run from Gibral- 
tar, and now the ship is safely anchored in the 
harbor of Algiers on the north shore of Africa. 
Chartered boats carrying the American flag, took 
us ashore. Five of us hired a carriage, and very 
soon we were driving through the streets of the 
city to view the sights of this most wonderful 
place. 

Algiers is controlled by the French. The Mo- 
hammedan, or Moorish, part of the city, is ex- 
tremely oriental. Here are women with veiled 
faces, as in Egypt. Some wear flowing robes, 
while the men appear dressed as in the days of 
Abraham. We visited a Mosque, and were met 
by a solemn faced official dressed in Mohamme- 
dan costume. Carpets were spread on the floor, 
but we dare not step on them, until we were 
provided with sandals or slippers. Then he 
quietly conducted us around, and in broken Eng- 
lish, explained to us something of their form of 



24 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

worship. There are no seats in the Mohammedan 
churches. We saw numbers of the people on 
their knees, with bowed heads, and seemingly 
concentrated thoughts, as they breathed forth 
their prayers to Allah. Next we went to the burial 
place of their dead. Everything seemed so 
strange to us. The manner of conducting their 
work was an object of interest. Work shops 
were small. Some shoemakers had their kit of 
tools and bench on the sidewalk. How different 
in America. We observed the manner in which 
the Mohammedan makes shoes, and we also ob- 
served that as a rule the masses go bare foot. 

Here we were again beset by beggars, blind, 
lame, and leprous, on every side, which the guide 
drove away. One little girl with a sweet face and 
beautiful dark eyes kept following us and reach- 
ing out her hand. I gave her a coin which 
seemed to delight her. She ceased to hold out 
her pretty little hand, saying in quite good 
English "baksheesh." Some of the streets are 
so narrow that only three persons can walk 
abreast. Through these, vehicles never pass, 
but the ever present donkey is here bearing his 
burden, and always claims the right of way. 
Returning to our carriages, we drove over the 
French portion of the city, which, like Paris, is 
beautiful. 

We were taken to the governor's palace, and 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 25 

enjoyed a pleasant walk through a grove of 
forest trees. Oranges, figs, lemons and dates, 
all flourish in abundance in and around Algiers. 
The houses are white, built of stone with roofs 
made of red tiling which gives them a bright and 
pretty appearance. I was struck with the high 
order of intelligence the Bedouins seemed to pos- 
sess. Some of the women were dressed in white 
satins and silks. Many appeared beautiful so 
far as form, forehead, and sparkling eyes were 
concerned, but their faces were veiled. Our 
carriage ride, which was delightful, lasted four 
hours, and after our long voyage from Gibraltar, 
was greatly enjoyed by all. 

We bade adieu to the city of Algiers. When 
the ship's anchor was raised from the bottom of 
the sea, the anchor chain brought up some earth 
on which was a shell, that I was fortunate enough 
to secure. I have had this shell mounted with 
gold, and it makes a very pretty souvenir. I have 
it on my watch chain. I do not wear it as an 
amulet, to prevent evil, but simply as a remem- 
brancer of my visit to the beautiful city of Al- 
giers. This city at one time was infested with 
pirates. 

Feb. 13 : Our ship is again plowing the his- 
toric waters of the Mediterranean. We are mak- 
ing good time. We have said good-bye to Al- 
giers forever, and feel that it was a great priv- 



26 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

ilege to visit the place, and set our feet on the 
dark continent of Africa, whose shores are still 
in sight. Sardinia is seen in the north. We have 
passed the site of ancient Carthage, and are now 
in the waters of the same great sea where Hanni- 
bal waged war against the Romans. Now we are 
passing the islands of Galita. They are bold and 
prominent as they rise from the sea. One looks 
like a camel in repose. How delightful the 
balmy air which comes to us from the African 
shore. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 27 



CHAPTER VI. 



THE ISLAND OF MALTA. 

"And when they were escaped, then they knew that the 
island was called Melita."— Acts 28 :1. 

Feb. 14: 6:30 a. m. I was on deck in time to 
see the sun rise. The scene was transcendently 
glorious. The sun came forth out of the ocean, 
and poured a flood of light over the water, which 
took on a gorgeous rose color, changing to gold. 
The whole heavens were painted with a splendor 
which pen can but feebly describe. 

Our ship is now at the Island of Malta. The 
bay is swarming with row-boats, painted in gay 
colors, and all carrying flags, on which was a 
lone star. We gazed in wonder, and reverential 
awe, on the island which we were about to visit. 
Nearly two thousand years ago Saint Paul landed 
here. His wrecked ship went to pieces in the 
fury of the waves, and the whole crew barely 
escaped with their lives. Wet and cold, they built 
a fire on this desolate shore. This fire not only 
warmed the cold shipwrecked mariners, but also 
a venomous viper which fiercely fastened on the 
apostle's hand. To the utter astonishment of the 



28 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

natives, he shook it oft' into the fire and received 
no harm. At first they thought he was a mur- 
derer, escaped from the sea, whom judgment still 
followed. When they saw no harm came from 
the bite,, they concluded he was a god. Such is the 
fickleness of human nature. ( hie day we are 
borne on the high swells of admiration, and the 
next we sink in the vortex of popular contempt. 
Saint Paul lived on this island for a time, in great 
favor with the governor, w hose name was 
Publius. 

i after landing we were conveyed to the 
depot in c; Lir carriage drive here cost 

only a sixpence. The city in which we landed is 
called Valetta. Here the British government has 
a fleet of warships, and because of the war in 
South Africa, there was a large number of \ 
anchored in the bay. Soldiers coming and g 
gave the place a warlike appearance. 

We visited the palace of the Governor, hut 
could not enter at first because some meeting 
in session. When the meel r, we were 

permitted to enter. There were four of us. We 
saw some of the most beautiful tapestry — flowers 
wrought in various colors by the needle. We 
were permitted to sit in the governor's chair. We 
saw many things of interest to us. It is stated 
that "It is yet the custom here, as in mediaeval 
times, to ring bells in stormy weather, for the 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 29 

purpose of warding off evil spirits and storm dis- 
asters. The bells for this purpose are blessed by 
priests and they are rung even in the dead of 
night, to the perpetual annoyance of unbelievers." 
Next, we passed into the Armory, where we saw 
a vast display of ancient armor from both Greece 
and Rome. We saw various implements of war- 
fare, both offensive and defensive, spears, hel- 
mets, shields, coats of mail wrought out of brass 
and steel which had been used in ancient warfare. 
Passing down the stairs, we were shown a large 
carriage in which Emperor Napoleon rode with 
the Governor of the island when he conquered it. 
The carriage was a curiosity. It was very heavy, 
and the tires on the wheels were bolted on in 
sections. It did not possess the grace and ele- 
gance of one of Studebaker's carriages made in 
South Bend, Indiana. It was richly finished, and 
no doubt in its day, was considered stately. 

Our Maltese guide next conducted us to lunch, 
which consisted of a cup of cocoa and biscuit. 
The butter was made from goat's milk. We were 
not a little amused to see the milk venders dis- 
tributing their milk. They drive the goats around 
on the streets, and stop in front of the various 
residences. The customer desiring milk stands 
and waits until it is milked from the goat. On 
receiving the milk, he hands a half piastre to the 
vender, who drives the goats to the next house 



30 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

and so continues until all his customers have been 
served. This method had its advantages — there 
is no chance for adulteration. The goats were 
large and beautiful, very different from those in 
America. We were told that one animal would 
give 14 pints of milk at a milking. 

We boarded the train after leaving our friend 
with the goats, and a seven-mile ride brought 
us to Citta Vecchia, another city of historic in- 
terest. Along the way we passed many beautiful 
gardens, and were told that the soil in those 
gardens was brought from Palestine on barges. 
The gardens were enclosed by stone walls, and 
each one had a square stone house where the 
gardener ate his lunch and kept his tools. 

In Citta Vecchia we visited several places of 
interest, among which was the site of the reputed 
house of Publius, the chief man of the Island, 
whose father Paul healed of a malignant disease. 
This is recorded in the twenty-eighth chapter of 
Acts. We also saw the Grotto, where the apostle 
stayed for three months and then sailed for 
Rome. I have no language to describe the Cathe- 
dral, the church of Saint Paul. The paintings 
were by Michael Angelo. One represented the 
shipwreck of Saint Paul. In the Grotto under- 
neath St. Francis Church was a life size statue 
of Saint Paul in marble. Some of the gateways 
were of solid silver. Wherever the eve turned 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 31 

were paintings of sacred character. We saw St. 
Paul's Bay, where the shipwreck occurred, and 
where the apostle reached the shore. 

We returned to Valetta and visited the Chapel 
of Bones, where we saw the skulls of 2,000 per- 
sons. These were arranged in a very artistic 
manner so as to display them properly from the 
floor to the dome. They were placed close to- 
gether, while the bones of the other parts of the 
body were corded up on shelves. These were the 
bones of the Crusaders, who fell in battle with the 
Turks, while on their way to rescue the holy city, 
Jerusalem, from the hand of the Infidel. On an 
altar, the following words were inscribed in 
Latin : 

"The world is a theatre, and human life is a 
tragedy, 

Every earthly thing is a personification of 
vanity. 

Death breaks and dissolves the illusion, and the 
boundary of all worldly things. 

Let those who visit this place ponder well these 
maxims, and pray for the perpetual rest 
of the dead lying here, and carry with 
them a lively remembrance of death. 

Peace by with you." 

We next visited the school and museum. Here 
are taught law, medicine and theology. The stu- 
dents looked intelligent, and indeed all of us were 
impressed by their appearance. The Maltese are 



32 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

dark complexioned, below medium height, and 
have well developed heads. The young lady 
clerks in stores were pretty, and intelligent. Al- 
though their language is a mixture of Arabic and 
Italian, they spoke the English language well. 
They are reported to be a law abiding and indus- 
trious people. The women wear a very unique 
bonnet, or head covering, which is a bonnet and 
cape combined. It is a one-sided affair made of 
silk, black in color. It is stiffened on one side 
by wire or rattan, which side they hold with 
their left hand to protect their faces from the 
sun, or the gaze of curious American tourists. 
The name of the bonnet is "faldeta." 

The harbor is a great rendezvous for the Brit- 
ish warships. About thirty of immense size are 
anchored in the bay. We saw a shipload of 
militia on their way to South Africa, to relieve 
a post so that the regular troops could go to the 
front. They were nearly all young men, and 
dressed in their scarlet uniforms, presented an 
imposing picture. It seems dreadful to have this, 
the flower and strength of the nation, destroyed 
by the ravages of war. For awhile their ship lay 
close alongside of ours, and they sang "God Save 
the Queen," "My Country, 'Tis of Thee," and 
gave cheers for America and England. As they 
crowded the decks of their gallant ship, our party 
took many snap-shot photographs of them. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 33 

We visited many stores, and were very much 
interested in going through the markets. We 
saw one thing that differed from our American 
custom. We decapitate a fowl, and then divest it 
of its feathers, but the Maltese pick the feathers 
from the live creature, and kill it afterward. 

We were delighted with the climate, which is 
much like that of Southern California. The 
whole face of the country between Valetta and 
Citta Vecchia was a continuous succession of gar- 
dens, each surrounded by a stone wall and pro- 
vided with a small garden house. We saw the 
natives using an exact type of the oriental plow, 
which was simply a forked limb of a tree. One 
side constituted the beam of the plow. This was 
long, and to it was attached an ox, while the other 
part was short, and formed the plow. In this 
crude way they scratched the soil. At this sea- 
son of the year vegetables were ready for use. 
Barley was 20 inches high. The air was like that 
of June. I could but think of my home in Michi- 
gan, how cold it is there, while here winter is 
scarcely known. But, O, this is not America. 

The British fortifications here, as well as at 
Gibraltar, possess great strength. Since Paul went 
ashore, dripping with the saline waters of the sea, 
surely God and man have wrought wonders in 
this emerald isle. Malta is called "England's eye 
in the Mediterranean." We left this interesting 



34 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

place with pleasant memories of the city and its 
inhabitants. 

Feb. 15: We left Malta on the evening of 
Feb. 14, just as the great cannon thundered forth 
the evening salute, and the vast rocks echoed, 
while the smoke arose in dense volumes and 
spread over the great ships of war. 

Our gallant ship sailed all night and nothing 
unusual happened. This morning finds us far 
out at sea, and out of sight of land, rushing on 
toward Egypt, which will be our next stop. This 
evening we had a lecture on Palestine by Rev. 
Penhallegon, of Decatur, 111., after which Mr. 
Timothy B. Hussey, of North Berwick, Me., gave 
an instructive talk on Palestine, in which country 
he had resided a number of years. He used a 
large map of Jerusalem to illustrate his subject. 

Feb. 16: We are still on the Mediterranean, 
cutting through the waves, but expect to anchor 
in the harbor of Alexandria, Egypt, at 5 o'clock 
next Saturday morning. The day has been un- 
eventful, with nothing of importance to record 
except that a fine entertainment was given this 
evening. After the entertainment, a collection 
was taken for the widows and orphans of the 
South African war. The amount received was 
over $50. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 35 



CHAPTER VII. 



THE LAND OF EGYPT. 



"Still through Egypt's desert places, 
Flows the lordly Nile, 

From its banks the great stone faces 
Gaze with patient smile. 

Still the Pyramids imperious 
Pierce the cloudless skies, 

And the Sphinx stares with mysterious 
Solemn, stony eyes." — Longfellow. 



Feb. 17 : We were dressed and on deck before 
sunrise. The ship's speed slackened, and the 
sailors began to take soundings. A light is seen 
on the shore. Now we see it ; now it has van- 
ished. Again it flashes and is seen far out at 
sea. 

We are in the Bay of Alexandria, and for the 
first time, catch a glimpse of the shores of the 
land of the Pharaohs. Now, by means of our 
marine glasses, we see the steam tug with pilot 
aboard, leaving the shore. The tug reaches our 
ship, a rope ladder is thrown over the side, and 
he ascends. He is dressed in English costume 
and wears a scarlet cap. He immediately goes 
to the captain's room and is now conferring with 



36 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

him in regard to our landing, which we expect to 
be accomplished by 9 o'clock A. m. 

What memories cluster around this old city 
which we are about to enter ! We shall not re- 
main here long, but shall proceed by rail to Cairo. 
The sea presents a fine picture, a most beautiful 
green, changing to light and dark blue. One 
of the party said that if a painter were to pro- 
duce a picture of the scene, it would be con- 
demned by the critics as overdrawn. We are 
having some difficulty in landing, because of the 
shallowness of the water. In due time we landed 
at Alexandria, being transported thither in small 
row-boats manned by native Egyptians. On 
reaching the harbor, we found it swarming with 
row-boats. There was a clatter and a jam and 
incoherent railing of the boat men, all anxious 
to secure their share, and more if possible, of the 
passengers. 

In about one hour we were all safely landed 
on the wharf, and for the first time, we could 
truly say that we were in the land of the Pha- 
raohs. We had not time to look about Alexandria. 
but we secured our baggage and a nice box lunch, 
provided from the steamer, and soon we were off 
for Cairo, 131 miles distant. We had a delight- 
ful ride in the quaint little English cars, which 
had doors opening in the side. We passed 
through a rich level country. It was as level as 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 37 

the sea when calm, and as rich as earth can be 
made. We passed many Egyptian villages, and 
some good sized cities. The villages consisted of 
mud huts, some of which were built round, others 
square or rectangular. 

We saw great numbers of cattle, camels and 
donkeys. The crops of cotton, sugar cane, barley 
and garden vegetables looked very luxuriant in 
growth. The plow and ox yoke were such as the 
people used in the time of Joseph. At one place 
we saw many people gathered at a funeral. The 
dead are not buried in the ground, but in stone 
sarcophagi, or caskets, which remain above 
ground. We caught a glimpse of the great pyra- 
mids on our way. It was amusing to see the 
natives riding donkeys and camels. As far as the 
eye could reach over the level valley of the Nile 
we could see fields of barley and cotton. 

On the way, our train stopped for a rest, but 
at 5 p. m. we reached Cairo. As we left the 
train, such pulling, yelling, and gesticulating I 
have seldom seen. Each of us must receive a 
ticket of assignment to our respective hotels. 
This caused a terrible jam and required one- 
half hour. As each ticket was sent to us, we were 
assigned to a certain omnibus. Here a crowd of 
Arabs beset us on every side, wishing to carry 
our satchels, or do some little service, for which 
to demand a small fee. As we were about to 



38 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

enter our omnibus, we were again beset by a 
crowd of beggars calling for ''baksheesh" which 
means a present. We hear "baksheesh" every- 
where. One is compelled to resort to force to 
protect himself. I was deeply impressed at see- 
ing so many who were blind. I was told it was 
caused by flies and other insects, which prey on 
the little children's eyes. Some attribute it to the 
dust of hot summer. The Egyptians wear a cone- 
shaped scarlet cap. Some are dressed in the most 
extravagant style. 

Feb. 18: This forenoon we visited one of the 
mosques, of which there are 360 in the city. Slip- 
pers were given to us, and as we were about to 
put them on our feet our guide interposed, say- 
ing that Americans need not put them on, but 
simply dust their feet. This we did, and passed 
inside to visit the interior of the mosque. If the 
marble exterior was imposing, the interior far 
surpassed it in beauty. I shall not attempt de- 
scription. We saw several tombs of the 
Khedives. These were of immense size and very 
elaborate, being inlaid with marble, silver and 
mother of pearl. 

This forenoon I witnessed the Mohammedan 
worship, which in this form, bordered on the ri- 
diculous, and was at times disgusting and hideous. 
The dervishes would howl and go through the 
most exhausting physical gyrations I ever saw. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 39 

One old deceiver took a lamp chimney and pre- 
tended to eat it. 

The Egyptians are shrewd in their way, and 
very much given to lying. Donkeys are seen 
everywhere. All Egyptians of the middle and 
lower classes go barefoot, and wear a Moham- 
medan dress which looks very droll to us Ameri- 
cans. The women are veiled. We visited the 
reputed well of Joseph. It was an immense hole 
20 feet square, drilled down through the solid 
rock to a depth of 280 feet. Everything about it 
showed it to be of great age. We were shown the 
place where the last of the Mamalukes were 
slain. One of them caused his horse to leap down 
from a high precipice to escape, but was cap- 
tured by a Khedive Ali Pasha. His noble horse 
was killed, but the Mamaluke finally escaped. 
There are marks of the horse's feet in the solid 
rock shown to the credulous, but our director said 
it was a modern device, simply to mark the place. 
We were shown the spot where the Virgin Mary 
rested with the child Jesus, while on her flight 
into Egypt. We stood on the banks of the Nile, 
not far from the place where Moses was found in 
the bulrushes. 

All these scenes awakened hallowed memories. 
The appearance and habits of the people helped 
to prove the divine truth of the Bible. We took 
a stroll through many narrow streets and wind- 



40 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

ing ways of old Cairo. The traveler can be ac- 
commodated with nearly everything, but pay is 
expected by the natives for every favor. O, the 
poverty, dirt and wretched condition of these in- 
dolent people. We found the cemeteries very 
interesting. We saw aqueducts built by the 
Romans and were struck by their great size and 
strength. Most of them are still standing, but 
time is doing its work. 

Monday, Feb. 19: Breakfast over, carriages 
at the door, and we are away on a sight-seeing 
trip. 11 a. m. We have just returned from an 
extensive drive through the city of old Cairo. 
The Mosque of Mahomet, built 666 years A. D., 
by Sultan Hassen, showed age and extreme dilap- 
idation of a once rich and splendid edifice. We 
were stopped at the door by officials of the 
Mosque, and slippers were placed on our feet. 
When we came out of the Mosque, these slippers 
were removed in a graceful manner by Egyptian 
girls, who did not forget to extend their hands for 
"baksheesh." It seems that every child is born 
with "baksheesh" in its mouth and the dying have 
the word upon their lips. Next we visited the old 
Coptic Church, which is indeed a relic of an- 
tiquity. It is called Abu Sargah, and is con- 
sidered a good type of the ancient Egyptian 
church. Tradition says that the crypts under the 
church served as a refuge for the Holy Virgin 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 41 

after her flight into Egypt. This crypt dates 
from the Arab conquest, while the church above 
is of more recent origin. 

We next visited the island of Barada and 
saw the Nilometer, where the rise and fall of the 
river Nile is recorded. It is said to be on the site 
where Moses was taken from the water. At 2 
p. m. lunch is over and we are off for another 
drive to see more of the Mohammedan mosques. 
One built of marble is the finest in the city. It 
was erected by one of the great rulers of the city, 
but is fast going to ruin. I shall not attempt a 
description. Nearly all the mosques present an 
old appearance and show decay. May God 
hasten the day, when on the fallen ruins of the 
Mohammedan Church, shall be forever estab- 
lished the kingdom of our Christ ; when the Koran 
shall be forsaken, and the Christian's Bible fill 
the world with truth and light. 

As I sit in my room writing these lines, from 
my window I can see a marriage procession. A 
band is in front, and carriages of friends follow- 
ing. I see something on the top of a man's head 
like a cabinet organ. After him follows the 
bride in a closed carriage, made more secure by 
many Turkish rugs of various colors laid over 
and hung about the carriage. Some of the equi- 
pages are richly furnished, and leads me to think 
that the marriage is of the better class. In this 



42 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

country woman is a mere toy or burden bearer, 
and not like the queen of the American home. I 
am convinced that the strength of any nation, 
depends on the elevation of woman to her proper 
place. 

Feb. 20: To-day a long cherished desire has 
been gratified — we have visited the Pyramids of 
Egypt. These have been so minutely described in 
almost every encyclopedia and guide book of 
travels in this land, that for me to attempt a 
description here is superfluous. The trip from 
our hotel to the Pyramids was made in carriages 
drawn by horses. The roads were macadamized 
and bordered on each side by beautiful Acacia 
trees. The valley of the Nile is a marvel of 
beauty. Barley, alfalfa and garden vegetables 
were growing as in the month of June in Amer- 
ica. We met long caravans of camels carrying 
their great loads of produce to the Cairo market. 
Flocks of goats and Egyptian cattle were also 
on their way to market. Sugar cane, oranges, 
and all kinds of produce, are brought to market 
on camels and donkeys. 

There is one more burden bearer that I must 
mention — woman. The mothers, wives and 
daughters of the nation were going to market 
barefoot, bearing heavy loads on their heads. 
Instead of murmuring because of their hard lot, 
they all seemed to be happy. The men were 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 43 

dressed in white, and the women in black. We 
passed a constant stream of humanity pouring 
into the great city of Cairo. The physical endur- 
ance of these people is marvelous. The immense 
size of the Pyramids, like Niagara, grows on one 
until he is almost bewildered. It required the 
toil of 100,000 men twenty years to finish this 
work. When I looked at the large size granite 
blocks, dressed and placed in position, I was 
dumb with wonder at the accomplishment of a 
task so great. I passed through the entrance to 
the tombs of the kings, and climbed the side of 
the largest Pyramid until I had a fine view of the 
valley of the Nile, and the great desert. 

The Sphinx was next visited. This is also 
another object of wonder. It is of great size, 
and cut out of the solid rock. Such a 
work is beyond the conception of the ordi- 
nary individual. Standing on the base of 
the great Sphinx, and while the sands of 
the Desert of Sahara are drifting about me, I 
write these lines. On our return, we visited the 
Egyptian museum of Gizeh, which is open every 
day from 9:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. We avoided 
visiting the museum on Tuesday, as this is a free 
day and open to all the lower classes of Arabs. 
There are collections of antiquities in about eighty 
rooms. We looked into the faces of the Rameses, 
and I was especially interested in viewing the re- 



44 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

mains of old King Pharaoh, of the Exodus. 
While I looked at the form, face and hands, my 
thoughts went back to the time when the hard- 
hearted old king so terribly abused God's people, 
requiring them to make bricks, and compelling 
them to gather a portion of the material, thus 
abusing and tyrannizing over them until their cry 
arose to God, who raised up a Moses to lead his 
people out from this land of cruel bondage. We 
saw many bricks of the same kind, that is, made 
of mud and straw, as in the time of Moses. 

One sees a great many things which appear 
droll; a man sawing wood by holding the saw 
and rubbing the stick upon it. I saw young 
girls sitting down in the street, making camel's 
dung into cakes, with their hands. These cakes 
were dried and sold in the markets for fuel. 
Goats and donkeys occupy the sidewalk, the goats 
being driven from door to door and milked, in- 
stead of sending the milk around by a milk 
wagon. Eggs are small and in great demand. 
Here cocoanuts hang on the stately palm trees. 

Feb. 21 : To-day we visited Heliopolis, city of 
the sun. Here was the great Egyptian school, 
and here Moses received his education. We 
looked on the only remaining obelisk. It is of 
red granite, and stands as it stood when Moses 
looked upon it thousands of years ago. Near this 
great center of education, we were shown the 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 45 

spot where Joseph and Mary rested with the babe. 
The heart of a Christian is stirred by these things. 
Here were the brick-yards of Egypt, and in this 
very place we saw thousands of sun dried bricks 
such as were made in the time of Moses, and 
things no doubt are much the same now as then. 

From the veranda of our hotel we see some 
little acrobats, dressed in gay colored livery, per- 
forming for us. Later. I am riding in a boat 
on the Nile. Cocoa trees make a fringe of beauty 
on the banks. O, this wondrous river Nile. I 
am delighted to have the privilege of sailing on 
the waters of the river where God, through the 
word of Moses, caused it to run red with blood. 
The sun is hot, like a typical South California 
day. We see a man fishing, and recall to mind 
the time when the fish in the river died. The 
beauty and fertility of the Nile valley is unsur- 
passed. When we had gone up the river as far 
as we desired, our party disembarked. An old 
Arab carried two of us on his back to the shore, 
and then called for "baksheesh." On the banks 
of the river we visited two Egyptian villages, and 
were much interested in the mode of life of the 
natives. We, however, were as much of a curios- 
ity to them as they were to us. We could see the 
women peeping through the crevices of the door 
to catch a glimpse of the strange people from far 
away America. I am more and more convinced 



46 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

that no nation can rise higher than the condition 
of its women. 

We saw many of -them carrying mortar in large 
vessels on their heads to the men who were laying 
brick. From a scaffolding which was not held 
together by nails, but tied with ropes, the. men 
continued to work in apparent security. Here 
sugar cane is eaten by the Egyptians and Arabs. 
The drawing of water was a primitive operation. 
( )xen and milch cows were hitched to a beam, 
and. by going around in a circle, turned the 
great wooden wheel on which is a band of ropes 
having earthen jars attached. These jars fill with 
water at the bottom of the well, or pit, and then 
empty at the top into a large trough, which in 
turn discharges into a ditch. In this manner 
they irrigate their land. The poor animal is 
blindfolded when started at the wheel, and she 
continues to go round and round until stopped 
by her driver. Thus far I have not seen a man 
intoxicated in Cairo. Men jostle each other 
through the narrow streets, but are polite and ap- 
pear to have little trouble with each other. 

Feb. 22: Washington's birthday in America. 
The morning is cool, but as the sun ascends, it 
will be hot again. T haw been reading the Bible 
account of Joseph presenting his father to Pha- 
raoh. 

T am sitting on the porch of the Khedivial 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 47 

hotel and looking at various modes of travel. 
Some are mounted on camels and donkeys, others 
on bicycles ; some are traveling by street car, 
while the Arabs are walking barefoot. Veiled 
women with the oriental water pitcher on their 
heads, and men with great leathern bottles on 
their backs are passing and repassing. There 
goes a nobleman in a splendid equipage, pre- 
ceded by trained runners dressed in gorgeous 
livery. We could enumerate many other inter- 
esting sights, but this morning must bid adieu to 
Cairo. Farewell to Cairo, its river and valley, 
forever. 

After a ride of 130 miles through a fine coun- 
try called the Delta of the Nile, we find our- 
selves again in Alexandria. We had a carriage 
drive for two hours over the city, visited Pom- 
pey's Pillar and some of the principal streets, 
after which we were taken to the wharf, where 
many boats were waiting to carry us to our dear 
old ship. We have become much attached to this 
vessel. It has carried us thousands of miles, and 
is our temporary home. After an absence of five 
days, we are glad to reach home. 

( )ur ship is now bearing us out on the waters of 
the great Mediterranean, and is heading for the 
ancient city of Joppa, Palestine, which we hope 
to reach to-morrow morning. Alexandria is re- 
ceding from view. Farewell, Egypt, forever. 



48 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

The wonders of thy land, the many hallowed 
memories shall ever remain engraved on mem- 
ory's tablet. When thy monuments have all 
crumbled, and the remains of thy temples are 
forever obliterated ; when thy minarets and ob- 
elisks have all fallen, and returned to dust, the 
pages of history will still recite thy former great- 
ness to future generations. 

One of our party met with a painful accident 
on entering the small boat to be carried to the 
ship at Alexandria. She had her hand on the 
edge of the boat when it collided with another 
boat, and it was badly crushed. A jeweler filed 
the rings off her fingers, and the ship's surgeon 
dressed the wound. No deaths have occurred 
aboard ship since we started, for which we are 
truly thankful. Our manager has assured us that 
none of our party shall be buried at sea. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 49 



CHAPTER VIII. 



PALESTINE. 

Blest land of Judea ! thrice hallowed of song, 
Where the holiest memories pilgrim-like throng, 

In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, 
On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee. 

— Whit tier. 

Feb. 23 : The outlines of Palestine are in view. 
At 9 a. m. we shall land at Joppa. We had a 
good rest last night. This morning there is a 
strong head wind. Some of the party are fearful 
we shall have a dangerous landing. Breakfast 
is almost ready, and the passengers are all ready 
for the landing. We have left a hot climate, low 
lands and deserts, and are now in a higher alti- 
tude. It is much cooler. 

Our party all landed safely at Joppa. Here we 
visited the house of Simon, the tanner. This vil- 
lage had some of the finest and cheapest oranges 
we have yet seen. Our visit here is much too 
short. All is hurry, and now we are off for 
Jerusalem. Passing through the Valley of Sharon 
we gathered a few lilies of beautiful scarlet 
color. We stopped at Ramleh, where Joseph of 
Arimathea lived. Passing through the Valley of 



50 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

Ajalon, we reached the Judean Hills, and then 
the mountains round about Jerusalem. Here we 
are in the city over which Jesus wept. 

After securing our rooms at the hotel, we 
started out with our guide and visited the Place 
of Wailing. We were taken through some of the 
darkest and filthiest streets I have ever seen. O, 
the wretchedness ! We could hardly pass the 
loaded camels. There is a brightening day for 
Jerusalem. More liberty is granted by the Turk- 
ish government. We visited many fine stores and 
shops. 

Feb. 24: We were called early this morning 
and breakfasted on the best of bread, butter, cof- 
fee and honey. At 8 a. m. we started for the 
Jordan, Jerico and the Dead Sea. Passing 
toward the east, we visited the Garden of Geth- 
semane, at the foot of the Mount of Olives. Far- 
ther on we passed the cemetery on the side of the 
hill overlooking the Valley of Jehoshaphat. 

Here we first saw lepers. A group of them 
stood by the wayside. Some had both hands off, 
and, holding up the stumps, cried out most pite- 
ously for help. Many were blind and deformed. 
Some with one foot gone, hobbled after our car- 
riage and cried out for "baksheesh." 

Leaving this sad scene, we proceeded on the 
road from Jerusalem to Jericho. We passed the 
place where the man fell among thieves, and saw 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 51 

the inn where the good Samaritan met him and 
rendered assistance. Jesus used this incident 
as an illustration to teach the lawyer whom he 
should consider his neighbor. We saw the brook 
Cherith, where Elijah was fed by the ravens. It 
was a delightful picture to see the shepherds lead- 
ing their flocks on the mountains of Judea. 

The road from Jerusalem to the plain of Jeri- 
cho is serpentine in its way through the moun- 
tains, but smooth as a floor, and made of solid 
rock. Our long train of carriages descended 
3,800 feet to the Dead Sea. Jericho, once known 
as the City of Palms, is where Rahab received the 
spies, and where Joshua commanded the people 
to march around the city while the priests blew 
trumpets. The walls fell. 

This afternoon we have visited the Dead Sea 
and the fords of the Jordan where Israel crossed, 
and where Jesus was baptized. On our way here 
the Bedouins had a quarrel and it was somewhat 
amusing to see them. Finally a cigarette all 
around from our guide, settled them and on we 
went. There were three horses abreast. The 
drivers raced with each other at a frightful rate. 

We are now stopping at the Gilgal Hotel, near 
the site of ancient Jericho. To-day we drank 
from the pool of Elijah, which is spoken of in the 
Bible as the place where Elijah healed the bitter 
waters and made them sweet. Many of our party, 



52 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

fatigued with the day's journey, have retired. 
I shall do likewise, as to-morrow is Sunday, but, 
nevertheless, we must start by half-past six for 
Jerusalem. On the way we expect to visit Beth- 
any, the home of Martha, Mary and Lazarus. 

Our party is attended by great armed Bedouins, 
who are acting as our guards. On our way we 
passed a caravan of 200 camels. What a sight 
it was to see those men and ships of the desert on 
their way to Jerusalem. In strong contrast was 
the sight of 28 carriages, each drawn by three 
horses abreast and filled with sight-seeing Amer- 
icans. Our Bedouin guards were mounted and 
with great swords hanging from their sides they 
galloped along the line to protect our party from 
wild roving bands of desert robbers. 

Feb. 25 : This forenoon we returned from 
Jericho to Jerusalem. We visited the town of 
Bethany, and saw the house of Martha and Mary. 
From appearances it was the identical house in 
which they lived. It was built entirely of stone 
and was of great age. When we consider the 
town of Bethany was never destroyed, it strength- 
ens our belief that this was the original home of 
Martha and Mary. We visited all the places of 
interest in Bethany. It seemed strange to us that 
we were on the spot where our blessed Lord 
raised Lazarus from the dead, and where Mary 
chose the good part. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 53 

We arrived in Jerusalem at I p. m., in time 
for lunch, after which we visited the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, and other places of interest. 
This evening we attended an English church, the 
pastor of which thinks the Jews will be gathered 
home to this city. He says when he came to Je- 
rusalem a few years ago, there were only 8,000 
Jews here, but now they number 50,000. He 
spoke earnestly about their conversion and said 
that he had received more than 500 Jewish con- 
verts into his church. 

Feb. 26: We arose early this morning and 
after breakfast four of us, with a guide, took a 
carriage for Bethlehem, six miles distant, south 
of Jerusalem. On our way thither, our drago- 
man pointed out the Valley of Hinnon. We vis- 
ited the tomb of Rachael, for whose hand Jacob 
served fourteen years. RachaeFs remains repose 
here alone where she gave up her life for that of 
her infant son. Benjamin. Jacob's grave is in He- 
bron. We all experienced sorrow as we stood 
by the lonely grave of Rachael. Our next stop 
was at Solomon's Pools. They are situated in a 
valley through which runs a stream in time of 
rain. There are three pools nearly 150 yards 
long. The lower one is the largest. They were 
great in their day. After visiting the pools, we 
were driven into the village of Bethlehem, and 
were shown the place where the infant, Christ, 



54 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

was born. A feeling of deep reverence took pos- 
session of our hearts. We ministers, on bended 
knees breathed a prayer of thanks to God for the 
"unspeakable gift." The site of Bethlehem has 
never been disputed. The sanitary condition of 
the town is not good. Squalid women, children, 
dogs and donkeys occupy the sidewalk, the don- 
key having the right of way. It appeared to us 
that the whole village had come out to see us. 
The trinket venders beset us in the wildest man- 
ner, almost dragging us into their stores and 
shops to purchase their wares. Here the workers 
in mother-of-pearl are seen, making beautiful 
articles from the crude shell. These articles are 
of trinket variety, and are for sale. One part of 
the village was a great improvement on the other. 
The buildings were entirely of stone from foun- 
dation to roof. 

We returned to Jerusalem for lunch, and then 
went with our guide to visit the Mosque of Omar, 
which stands on the site of the ancient temple of 
Solomon. I think this Mohammedan church is 
the finest I have yet seen. The interior of the 
great dome sparkles with mosaics of pearl. I 
shall not attempt to describe the richness and 
grandeur of this edifice. 

Next we visited the stables of Solomon. These 
have been exhumed and are in an excellent state 
of preservation. We next went to visit the Pool 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 55 

of Bethsaida. It lies very deep below the surface 
and has the appearance of being the original pool 
where Christ healed the man, who told 
him that when the waters were troubled, he had 
no one to put him into the pool, but while he was 
waiting some one stepped in before him. We saw 
the Hall of Pilate, which has been brought to 
light from the depths of the ruins. After slum- 
bering there nearly two thousand years, this Hall 
was well preserved. The color of the paint was 
still bright. One is almost bewildered with the 
many things he hears and sees. 

Feb. 27 \ Dark and raining. This morning I 
started to visit the Jewish quarters, but after vis- 
iting a few places, the rain came down in such 
torrents that I decided to go no further, and re- 
turned to my temporary home, the Howard 
Hotel, to dry my clothing. Those who continued 
sight-seeing this morning, returned dissatisfied. 
This is the season of tourists, and they are pour- 
ing into Jerusalem. A Gaze party has just left, 
and besides our large party, under able man- 
agement, Cook landed a party last night. The 
ladies' parlor had to be given up to sleepers. I 
am convinced that this city, and some others in 
this country of the Orient, are greatly supported 
by tourists. 

I am very solicitous, indeed I am anxious, in 
regard to our seven days' horseback ride from 



56 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

Jerusalem to Galilee. I am not very well, but if 
I take this ride, I must make the best of it. I 
trust that the same Hand that has led me thus 
far, will continue to lead me safely through the 
land of Jesus, and the land of Abraham, Isaac 
and Jacob. 

This afternoon I have visited the Mount of 
Olives, and looked over the city of Jerusalem. It 
was one of the finest views I have ever seen. As 
the Saviour sat here and looked at the city of 
His day, with its temple in which the ancient 
people of God worshipped, as He saw it in. all its 
glory, He wept because, in prophetic vision, He 
beheld its downfall. Leaving the Mount of 
Olives, we went into the Garden of Gethsemane, 
where Jesus wept and prayed. Next we visited 
the Tombs of the Kings, which were truly won- 
derful. 

Feb. 28 : Still it rains. My cold caused me to 
cough considerably during the night, and, as I 
am not feeling well I have decided that it would 
not be prudent for me to go for the horseback 
ride across Palestine. I am disappointed, but 
this is a world of disappointments. The party are 
all excitement over the horseback trip. The most 
friendly feeling exists in the party. The trip is a 
great undertaking, but the Lord has been good 
to us. 

I am now about 7,000 miles from my home. I 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 57 

have received no letter yet from my homeland ex- 
cept from Bro. Sickafoose. I expect mail from 
my wife and oldest son at Bey rout. In this far 
distant foreign land it is a comfort to think that 
I have a home and loved ones. 

I am sitting in the Howard Hotel, looking out 
on the southern part of Jerusalem, and have vis- 
ited all places of note in and around the city : 
namely, Mount of Olives, Jordan and the Dead 
Sea, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Tombs of 
the Kings, Solomon's Pools, and Jewish quar- 
ters. How many times I have heard of the dogs 
and donkeys of Jerusalem. The dogs have a 
wolfish look, but seem to be peaceable. They are 
the scavengers of the city, and appear to realize 
their inferior dog position in the city's economy ; 
but pedestrians must all stand aside for the don- 
key, for he realizes that he has the right of way 
on the sidewalk. The butter here is the poorest I 
have ever eaten. It is churned in a goat-skin. 
The milk is placed in the skin, which is then 
shaken and kicked about until it is, as they say, 
"finish." This is a great word among the Arabs 
— finish. In the city of Cairo, Egypt, I remem- 
ber calling for milk in my coffee at the hotel, but 
the waiter shook his head and said "finish." By 
this he meant that the milk was exhausted — 
there was none. 

I am jotting down these notes in a small 



58 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

pocket memorandum book, and I now discover 
that I am on the last page of volume i, and must 
procure another book. As I close the first vol- 
ume, I must record that I am now enjoying the 
cherished desire of many years, the event of my 
ministerial life, a trip to the Holy Land. 

March t : This morning we have said fare- 
well to Jerusalem, and are on our way to Joppa, 
where we shall board the ship for Caifa, on oui 
way to Galilee. O, what memories cluster 
around these historic places. The cars are ready 
to start. Good-bye, Jerusalem, Bethlehem and 
Bethany, cities in which Jesus was born, rested, 
taught and lived. In the present city of 60,000 
there is not a mill, factory or newspaper. When 
we contemplate its past glory, and contrast it 
with its present condition, with the hand of the 
Turk still heavy upon it, we are convinced that 
the fate promised by Christ is still resting on 
Jerusalem. 

We are now on board the steamer for Caifa, 
with the weather warm and balmy. Joppa is in 
full view on the shore, with its matchless groves 
of oranges. We have transversed the Mediterra- 
nean Sea from one end to the other, a distance of 
nearly 2,000 miles. How good our God is, and 
how manifold His mercies. We render praise 
and thanksgiving to Him for His protecting care 
on this long voyage. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 59 

Near this place Jonah took ship to flee from 
the call of God to preach the gospel at Nineveh. 
We landed at Caifa at 9 in the evening. It was 
dark. We were taken ashore in rowboats. The 
Arabs were unusually boisterous, and finally 
came to blows. My cold is more severe, and is 
affecting my eyes, head, throat and lungs. 

March 2: We were booked for Mt. Carmel, 
but for the present were brought to a nunnery. 
We are, however, in full view of the mountain 
where Elijah called down fire from Heaven. Our 
carriages are ready and we start for Nazareth. 
Just before we entered the Plain of Esdraelon. 
we stopped for lunch. Mt. Carmel is in full view, 
where God sent fire to consume the sacrifice, and 
where he slew four hundred prophets of Baal. 
The scenery here is picturesque. The Plain 
spreads out before us in wondrous beauty. In 
this Valley, the Philistines fought with King 
Saul, and in this vicinity ended the life of Saul 
and his sons, among whom was the noble Jona- 
than, David's most intimate friend. I look on 
this scene with much emotion. We have passed 
the place where Deborah and Barak overcame 
the Canaanites, and where Jael drove the nail 
into the temple of the enemy's leader. 

I am now sitting in the shadow of a great rock 
on the way to Nazareth, six miles distant. We 
have crossed the Plain of Esdraelon, and while 



60 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

our Arabian horses are resting at the foot of the 
mountain, I have come on before to find time to 
write. The view is magnificent. Two villages 
are in sight. To-night we shall stay at Nazareth, 
where Jesus was raised from the dead. How our 
hearts swell with emotions at the thought of 
being near this place. The country about here 
presents a fine subject for a painter. There are 
three priests in the carriage in which I am riding. 
The four horses drawing the vehicle are re- 
quired to do their best in crossing the plains, 
which were almost impassable because of recent 
rains. It recently rained continuously for 20 
hours. 

Now the party have left the carriages and are 
walking up the mountain side to relieve the 
horses. We have now reached Nazareth, and 
are stopping at a Catholic Hospice, where we 
were well entertained. This town was the early 
home of Jesus. It is now a city of 8,000 inhab- 
itants and possesses some good bazaars and 
hotels. We visited the home of Joseph and Mary. 

Oriental life and customs are seen on every 
hand. We saw the maidens of the town come to 
the Virgin's Fountain, fill their pitchers, enjoy a 
little social gossip and then place their pitchers 
on their heads and walk away to their homes as 
if those pitchers, which hold at least two gallons, 
were simply ornaments for their heads. This 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 61 

fountain flows out of a rock, and at this point, 
pours forth from two great stone spouts, and 
flows over a stone floor where the women come 
to wash clothing. 

March 3: We left Nazareth at 7:30 a. m. 
and proceeded around the Mountain, again hav- 
ing an excellent view of the town. Soon we ar- 
rived at Cana, of Galilee, where our Lord 
wrought His first miracle — the turning of water 
into wine. We visited the same fountain where 
the servants obtained the water, which, after it 
was turned to wine, the governor pronounced the 
best of the feast. 

The village of Cana is not very clean. The 
people live mostly in mud huts. The faces of the 
women have a discouraged look, and they all 
have an unkempt appearance. There is great deg- 
radation of society here under Turkish rule. 
We visited the place where the marriage referred 
to in the New Testament occurred. Bidding 
adieu to Cana, our procession of 21 carriages 
moved on up the Lebanon Valley toward the Sea 
of Galilee. We rested and took lunch at a place 
by the wayside near a pool of water. The day 
was hot and our noble horses were very warm. 
As there was not a tree in sight, we ate our 
lunch in our carriages. As I write these lines, I 
remember that our Lord went back and forth 
to Jerusalem and Capernaum. 



62 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

I have left the carriages and walked ahead and 
now I have a fine view of the lofty hills on the 
other side of the sacred Sea of Galilee. Mt. 
Tabor and Mt. Hermon are in view. As I walk, I 
am thrilled with the first sight of the sea and 
mountains. Hermon is covered with snow and 
ice and its grandeur fills my heart with emotion. 
How much I wish my friends could also behold 
this beautiful scene ! I am reminded of the song, 
and it is now on my lips, "O, Galilee, sweet Gali- 
lee." On this very ground Jesus fed the five 
thousand. On my "left is the Mount of Beati- 
tudes, where He preached the sermon on the 
Mount. 

We are now entering Tiberias, and the people 
of the town have come out to see us. They could 
see our train of carriages coming down the 
mountain side for half an hour before we reached 
the town, and they have lined the roadway on 
both sides — young men and maidens, and an es- 
cort of Turkish soldiers, thus showing great re- 
spect to the strange Americans. At our first 
meal in Tiberias we dined on fresh fish from the 
Sea of Galilee. I am settled in a good room and 
shall rest. 

March 4 : Sunday. I am sitting by the Sea of 
Galilee, watching the fishermen who are taking 
fish from their boats as Peter, James and John 
did in the days of Christ. There are women with 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 63 

their water pitchers wading out into the sea to 
fill them. We have crossed the sea to Caper- 
naum. I have read that part of the New Testa- 
ment aloud which relates to the ministrations of 
our Lord about this place. 

What a lovely trip we had across the sea. I 
behold but a few ruins and broken columns, 
which are all the visible remains of ancient Ca- 
pernaum. This city, in His day, was exalted unto 
Heaven, but now, according to His word, is 
thrust down to Hell. We saw gardens, flowers 
and lemon trees, and also saw them baking bread. 
Next we took a boat, manned by Arabs, and 
were soon landed on the ancient site of Bethsaida. 
Here the roses rivaled those of Southern Cali- 
fornia. Oranges, figs, and lemons grow in rich 
profusion. The day is warm. We shall take 
lunch here overlooking the sea. Our Arabs are 
keeping up such a jargon that I can scarcely 
write. They are not modest, according to Amer- 
ican standards. We were carried to our row- 
boats in the arms of Arabs who were almost 
naked. 

Last evening we attended the preliminaries of 
a wedding. We heard the cry and saw a pro- 
cession advancing carrying a light. We followed 
and were received into a hall where there was 
music and dancing. The mother of the bride 
appeared delighted, and led in the merriment of 



64 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

the evening. Presently a servant entered carry- 
ing a tray containing cups of fine jelly and a lot 
of silver spoons. Each of lis Americans took a 
spoon, dipped it into a cup of jelly, and, after 
tasting it, placed the spoon in an empty glass. 
After each of us had been served in turn in this 
manner, next came a tray of small cups of coffee. 
After partaking of the coffee, we insisted on see- 
ing the bride. She was a good looking girl and 
shook hands with each of us. Next came the 
groom, a solemn faced boy of 15 years. He also 
shook hands with all American tourists, then re- 
turned to his seat. More dancing followed and 
we left. The couple will be married eight days 
later. 

This afternoon we took a stroll through the 
town and were astonished at its unsanitary con- 
dition. Here are these people in ignorance, while 
Protestant Christianity would educate and uplift 
them. In the morning we shall start for Caifa, 
where we shall meet our ship. We must soon 
bid farewell to Galilee forever. To me it is the 
most beautiful sheet of water I have ever seen. 
This is the place where Peter, James and John 
left their unmended nets to rot on the shore, and 
followed the blessed Christ who made them fish- 
ers of men. 

This evening I attended services in a Scotch 
Presbyterian Hospital. I visited the sick and 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 65 

was called on to pray. An Arabic woman acted 
as interpreter, sentence by sentence, as I offered 
prayer. It was a joy to mingle with Christians 
so far from home. I was deeply moved with 
sympathy for the poor suffering ones who were 
afflicted here where the Master cured so many, 
but He is still carrying on His blessed work 
through this institution. We shall leave here at 
7 a. m. to-morrow. 

March 5 : All are astir preparing to start on 
our journey. Sixty-two horses must be made 
ready. We have a long hill to climb in starting 
for Caifa where we shall meet our ship, but we 
must remain over night at Nazareth. Our de- 
parture was rather imposing. A line of Turkish 
soldiers, armed, and in full uniform, were drawn 
up on each side of the street. A large number 
of citizens gathered to see us start. When all 
was ready a blast from a bugle was given as a 
signal and our 20 carriages began to move up the 
side of the mountain. It was an inspiring spec* 
tacle to see so large a party of American citizens, 
returning from a visit to the places frequented h y 
their loving Lord. After a slow march of two 
hours, we could look directly down on the Sea of 
Galilee, the River Jordan, and the ancient sites 
of the Capernaum and Bethsaida. To the north, 
snow capped Mt. Hermon lifted his majestic 
form to an altitude above the clouds. The day 



66 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

was perfect and the sea appeared to slumber in 
peace as when Jesus said, ''Peace, be still." We 
reached an altitude of 1500 ft. and the scene 
seemed to lie in grace and beauty just below us. 
Surely this was the most inspiring picture of na- 
ture I have ever had the privilege to behold, and 
the scene will never be forgotten. 

"Blue sea of the hills ! — in my spirit I hear 
Thy^ waters, Genesaret, chime on my ear; 

Where the Lowly and Just with the people sat down, 
And thy spray on the dust of His sandals was thrown. 

Beyond are Bethulia's mountains of green 
And the desolate hills of the wild Gadarene, 

And I pause on the goat crags of Tabor to see 
The gleam of thy waters, O dark Galilee." 

Along our way we met caravans of camels 
driven by great rough looking Bedouins, but the 
entire road from Tiberias on the Sea, to Naza- 
reth, was made safe by the Turkish guards. 

We are now safely domiciled in a strong 
monastery which affords us excellent entertain- 
ment. To-day on our return from Galilee we 
again passed through Cana. I bathed my hands 
in the stream of the same fountain from which 
the water was taken that was turned into wine. 
This stream gushes from the rock and makes a 
pool which is curbed with hewn stone. There is 
an abundance of this water for the entire village, 
and it is a novel sight to see the women come to 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 67 

this fountain to fill their pitchers. In all nry 
travels in the Orient I have seen only one man 
carrying water. I presume they think it is be- 
neath their dignity. 

March 6: Morning at Nazareth. I arose 
early, as we have a long drive to-day, but with 
our four Arabian horses, we expect to arrive at 
Caifa at i P. m. Just now some Arab boys are 
quarreling for the privilege of blacking the shoes 
of a priest. These baksheesh people are very 
hard to satisfy. 

Our carriages are now ready and we say fare* 
well to the only home of our blessed Lord. How 
often in memory we shall return and behold those 
hills, made sacred by the footprints of Him who 
redeemed us. Oriental life is seen on every hand, 
and the firm grasp of the Turk will ever keep it 
so until God shall lift his heavy hand from the 
necks of the groaning people. 

11:15 a. m. We have made good time this 
forenoon, having just finished lunch, and are rest- 
ing under a large live oak in full view of Mt. 
Carmel. We see the range of mountains, and on 
the spot where Elijah offered sacrifice, stands a 
building. What a privilege to look on these his- 
toric places, where God manifested His power 
and vindicated His prophet. In imagination I 
can hear the prophet calling down fire from 
Heaven to consume the sacrifice. 



68 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

We are far on our way now ; Caifa is in view, 
and the day after to-morrow we shall board our 
ship again, after twelve days of travel without an 
unoccupuied hour. This is like a June day. 
Farmers are plowing their fields, and the fig 
trees are putting forth their leaves. Oranges of 
the finest quality are grown in this Mediterra- 
nean country. We have reached Caifa in good 
time, and are again in the same hospitable place 
where we stopped before we started to Galilee. 
Our accommodations are excellent. Mt. Carmel, 
behind which the sun is hidden long before he 
sets, is still in full view. We expect our ship to- 
morrow. We have heard that the sea at Joppa 
is very rough and this may delay our ship. We 
expect to drive up Mt. Carmel to-morrow and 
visit the spot where Elijah prayed for rain. To- 
day I called at the office of the American Con- 
sul, over whose building the Stars and Stripes 
were floating, but he was not in. 

March 7: Last night we were at the Hospice, 
a Catholic Institution kept by Sisters, and we 
were well entertained with vocal and instrumen- 
tal music. This morning the sea is more calm, 
and we are waiting for our carriages before 
making the ascent of Mt. Carmel. This climate 
is much like that of Southern California. We 
are learning a great deal about geography and 
human nature on this wonderful trip. As I look 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 69 

out of my window, I see the town of Acre, where 
the Crusaders made their headquarters. This 
forenoon we ascended half way up Mt. Carmel 
in carriages, but were obliged to walk the re- 
mainder of the distance to the summit. We vis- 
ited a monastery situated on a high point run- 
ning out into the sea, also the Grotto, or reputed 
cave where Elijah lived, near the School of the 
Prophets. I shall read my Bible with new inter- 
est. 

Word comes to us from Mt. Carmel that our 
ship, with the Egyptian section of our party, is 
in sight. We have been separated twelve days, 
and it will be pleasant to meet again. I must 
soon leave this strange people, these historic 
grounds and this Institution, kept by the Sisters, 
who have made our stay very pleasant. The 
houses here are of stone, with tile floors and roof, 
and have no wood about them except the window 
frames and doors. I have not heard a fire alarm 
during my sojourn in the Orient. 

Our ship has arrived and we are all aboard. It 
seems like home again. To-night we start for 
Beyrout, Syria, where we expect to arrive to- 
morrow. Farewell, Palestine, forever. My 
room-mate, Dr. Noble, is ill and I have changed 
rooms. I slept well last night, but am much dis- 
appointed in getting no mail from home. 

March 8: This day is ever remembered by 



70 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

me, as 52 years ago my father died, and I always 
remember it wherever I am. Here in this far 
away land I record my fond remembrance of him 
who worked and planned for his children. Our 
ship is now about to anchor in the harbor of 
Beyrout. The great snow covered mountains of 
the Lebanon range are in full view. The Jordan 
River has its source in these majestic mountains. 
Our party is now landing in small boats, but 
as the weather is rainy. I think I shall not go 
ashore now. Beyrout is beautiful in appearance, 
and one of the most attractive objects is the Amer- 
ican College. To-day on board the ship, I met Mr. 
Niselv. of Dayton, Ind., who is well acquainted 
with all my old friends and neighbors in that 
locality. We had a pleasant visit together. He 
is engaged in educational work in Beyrout. Some 
say that Beyrout has over 100,000 inhabitants. 
This is the extreme eastern point of our cruise 
and we now turn the ship's prow westward. Some 
of the passengers are again seasick, but I have 
not yet experienced the dread complaint. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 71 



CHAPTER IX. 

SMYRNA. 

"And unto the angel of the church in Smyrna write." 

— Revelations 2 :8. 

March 9 : The morning dawns bright and 
clear as crystal. On our right are seen the great 
snow-covered mountains of Asia Minor. Dur- 
ing the night we passed Cyprus, and to-day we 
shall pass Rhodes, and to-morrow morning land 
at Smyrna. There is a strong head wind but the 
Captain says we can make better speed for the 
wind gives a better draft to the fires under the 
boilers of the engines. We are making excellent 
time. The motion of the ship renders writing 
somewhat difficult. The ship is making 321 miles 
per day. 

The bugle sounds for breakfast. I notice the 
passengers are not so merry as they were at first 
because of the fatigue of travel, but all seem 
happy. To-day I received a package of letters 
from my son Edward. It was a real treat, and 
afforded me a pleasant surprise. Our grand old 
ship is now passing the Isle of Rhodes. It has 
no trees or verdure, and appears the very throne 



72 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

of desolation. It contains a lighthouse whose 
beams flash far out to sea to warn voyagers and 
give them safety. This lone light tower, standing 
out on a lofty peak, appears to me like a sentinel 
soldier, standing at the post of duty. The great 
Colossus has long since fallen, and we shall see 
no traces of its ancient greatness. 

March 10: I am now writing at the tomb of 
Polycarp, the martyred Bishop of Smyrna. We 
arrived at 7 :uo this morning. Smyrna is a large 
town in Asia Minor, famous for its rugs. It is 
situated on a beautiful bay, which at present is 
full of ships. The people appear better educated, 
and more advanced than those in many of the 
towns which we have visited. We took a walk 
through the bazaars and saw many of the rugs 
and carpets. 

One of our party had a quarrel with the guide, 
who was negligent of his duty. I have learned 
by experience that every tourist must be cautious 
or he will be most shamefully imposed upon by 
some of the guides, who are ready to fabricate 
almost anything which they think will please the 
American taste. I have seen many people who 
do not live, but simply exist ; while, on the other 
hand, there are some of our lady tourists in our 
party who require so much waiting on, that our 
ship steward appears to have a fatigued look 
whenever they call him. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 73 

This afternoon we are spending our time in 
the cabin writing. Our ship has given a shrill 
whistle which sounds to me much like our fire 
alarm in Buchanan, and we are informed that we 
shall start for Constantinople at 5 p. m. 

March 1 1 : Sunday morning. Our good ship 
sped on through the night, winding its way 
among the many islands in this part of the Med- 
iterranean Sea, while our Captain remained on 
the bridge all night long with watchful eye on 
our course, lest we should be wrecked on the 
rocks. 



74 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 



CHAPTER X. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"The European with the Asian shore 
Sophia's cupola with golden gleam, 

The cypress grows — Olympus high and hoar, 
The twelve isles, and the more than I could dream." 

— Byron. 

Now we are passing through the Dardanelles, 
not far from the site of ancient Troy. The Dar- 
danelles is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 miles 
wide. From both sides its forts of frowning can- 
non stand guard over the land of the Sultan. The 
Turk holds both sides of the Dardanelles. We 
are now in the same latitude as New York, and 
the morning is cold. We have passed through 
the Dardanelles, crossed the Sea of Marmora and 
are passing up the Bosphorus, which enters the 
Black Sea. After steaming up the Black Sea a 
short distance, we shall return at 3 p. m. and 
land at Constantinople. We have traveled so far 
north since leaving Palestine that the weather here 
is as cold as Michigan. I am sitting in the for- 
ward salon awaiting the hour for religious 
service. 

This morning I obtained permission from the 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 75 

chief engineer to visit his department, the magni- 
tude of which grows on one. The ship has two 
main shafts of steel 15 inches in diameter and 
180 feet long. These pass through the stern of 
the ship and on the end of each is the mighty 
propeller, which, under the influence of steam, 
drives the vessel forward at the rate of 380 miles 
a day. 

5:30 p. m. We are now anchored in the Bos- 
phorus, and Constantinople is in view. It pre- 
sents a gorgeous appearance. The great Mosque 
of Sancta Sophia, with its four tall minarets, 
the palace of the Sultan, and in fact the whole 
city is spread out before us. We shall remain 
aboard to-night and go ashore to-morrow. The 
weather is cold. Our mail has just been brought 
aboard, and O, what an eager crowd to hear 
from home and friends. Mail from America 
inspires everyone with new life. I received a 
letter from my wife, one from my sister-in-law, 
Mrs. Elizabeth Hawkins, and one from my son, 
Edward. I was exceedingly glad to receive 
these letters from my home, and I do hope that 
those which I have written will reach their 
destination. 

I have read the "Prince of India", by General 
Wallace, wherein is recorded the great conquest 
of Mohamet, his victory over Constantine, and 
the taking of this city of Constantinople, and to- 



76 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

morrow we expect to walk the streets and visit 
the places of interest. As I look out and see 
a boat approaching bearing the American flag, 
my patriotic American heart beats faster. 

March 12: This is Monday morning and we 
are still anchored in the channel in front of the 
city, but we shall go ashore at 8 a. m. Two sad 
deaths have occurred in our party. 

We have landed and I am on the top of Galata 
Tower, having a fine view of the city. This 
forenoon we took a boat ride up the Golden Horn 
and back again. Our ascent of the Galata Tower 
was fatiguing, but I was repaid by the view I 
had of the city with its million inhabitants. This 
great city, called by the Turk, Stamboul, or 
Istamboul, is the ancient Byzantium. Here, two 
civilizations and religions struggled for mastery. 
On May 29, 1453, ^ le Turks, numbering 250,000, 
led by Mahomet the Conquerer, successfully 
stormed the city, which was valiantly defended 
by that noble Monarch, Constantine XIII, with 
only 5,000. 

Constantinople fell into the hands of the Turk, 
who entered amid awful pillage, rapine, and 
slaughter, and still holds the city as his capital. 

On that fateful day the Christian religion and 
its emblems were swept away, and the Moslem 
religion, which remains to this day, was es- 
tablished. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 77 

We visited Sancta Sophia. The present church 
was built in the sixth century by the Emperor 
Justinian. It required ten thousand workmen 
seven years to complete the structure. Materials 
were brought from every part of the Empire. It 
contains remains of many pagan temples. The 
dome of the tabernacle was of pure gold, sur- 
mounted by a gold cross weighing 75 pounds and 
encrusted with precious stones. All the sacred 
vessels were of gold. Altar cloths embroidered 
with gold and pearls. The altar itself was a mass 
of molten gold, into which were thrown pearls, 
sapphires, diamonds, onyxes, and everything 
which could increase its value. Its cost was 
about sixty-five million dollars. 

It was taken from Constantine by Mahomet, 
who made some changes in this, the greatest 
wonder of antiquity of its kind now in existence. 
The architecture and design are of a high order. 
Many of the columns were brought from afar, 
some from Heliopolis, Egypt, others from Ephe- 
sus. The dome is 180 feet high and more than 
100 feet in diameter. Sancta Sophia must be 
seen to be properly appreciated. 

This citv is noted for its dogs. I counted 17 
in one pack. They are on every square. -.They 
are owned by everyone, and yet have no 
master. Dogs everywhere. They are protected 
by law, and superstitiously held in reverence, but 



78 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

like the Turk, they appear to be in a miserable 
condition. As a rule the streets of Constantino- 
ple are paved with cobble stones, and are not 
very clean. The bazaars are fine. The Turk is 
an active solicitor of trade. 

We visited the Museum of Antiquities and the 
Tomb of Alexander the Great, which is one of 
the finest works of marble in existence. We 
were shown the reputed skull of the ambitious 
conquerer, and many clay tablets and cylinders 
which have shed much light on the obscurity of 
antiquity. To-morrow we hope to visit the 
Palace and Treasury of the Sultan. 

March 13: I have been out on deck with an 
agent of this steamship company, who is very 
well informed. I had a fine view of the Palace 
of the imprisoned brother of the Sultan. Accord- 
ing to Turkish law, the brother of the Sultan 
must be killed, but in this case, instead of killing 
him, they built a palace in which to imprison 
him. I call it a palace because it has a palatial 
appearance. This great city grows on one the 
longer he beholds it. The German Embassy and 
Hospital are in full view of our ship. Our ves- 
sel was too large to dock in the Bosphorus, and 
we were obliged to land in steam tenders. The 
weather is cool and much like that of many 
places of America in the Middle States. 

Last evening we had a lecture from a professor 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 79 

of the Robert College. This college was founded 
by Mr. Robert, of New York, in 1863, and is 
supported by New York men. It has 300 stu- 
dents, and is doing excellent work. The lecturer 
said that the Americans were accused of being 
responsible for the Armenian massacre. This 
was true in the sense that America enlightened 
the Armenians, and when enlightened, they 
would not endure the tyranny to which they were 
subject, and in their efforts to throw off the yoke, 
were massacred. 

This afternoon we visited the palace of the 
Sultan. It was a magnificent building with walls 
of alabaster, marble and crystal stairs, silver 
tables, mirrors of immense size and perfect in 
quality, elegant furniture and beautiful decora- 
tions. The Throne Room alone cost one million 
dollars. Soon we must leave the seat of Otto- 
man power, and proceed to Athens, Rome, Na- 
ples and other places. 

March 14 : I was on deck this morning before 
sunrise, and later old Sol arose and revealed the 
city in its glory. Of the cities which I have 
visited, Constantinople is far above them all for 
beauty of situation. Last night we slept aboard 
ship in the middle of the Bosphorus. Con- 
stantinople is situated on a number of elevations, 
each having a name, but all included in the city. 
Very few visitors here go away with a feeling 



80 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

of disappointment. The government is said to 
be rotten, the soldiers superstitions, and the 
Sultan an effeminate coward, who scarcely looks 
out of his palace without a military escort. The 
whole Ottoman Empire is held together by the 
jealousy of the other powers. 

On leaving the city this morning we steamed 
up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, passing a 
continuous line of cities and forts. The natural 
scenery is unsurpassed. On the European side 
is the Robert College. The students raised the 
Stars and Stripes and came out on the campus 
and the roof of the building to greet us. Our 
ship gave a salute, and waved hundreds of Amer- 
ican flags. Cheer after cheer went up from the 
ship and was returned with equal spirit by the 
students. After steaming a short distance into 
the Black Sea, we then returned to Constantino- 
ple and as we passed the American College 
another salute was given. 

Now we must bid adieu to Constantinople, the 
seat of Ottoman power, under which government 
we have been ever since we entered Palestine. 
We must now leave the Turk, who, for all we 
know, has treated us with as much respect as he 
is capable. What protection he has given us we 
do not fully know, as this is an absolute Mon- 
archy. An American who has been granted 
"life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness" does 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 81 

not feel the safety here that he does in his own 
country. Our gallant ship now leaves Constanti- 
nople, passes into the Sea of Marmora, thence 
through the famous Dardanelles, which connects 
it with the Aegean Sea. 



82 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 



CHAPTER XL 



ATHENS. 

"Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts 

And eloquence, native to famous wits." — Milton. 

March 15: The weather is dark and rainy 
this morning. Last night we passed the site of 
ancient Troy. Prof. Penny delivered an illus- 
trated lecture on Athens. We are now in the 
Aegean Sea and will stop at Piraeus, where we 
shall take the train for Athens. 

On Tuesday of this week, our manager asked 
me to change my state room. This I did to his 
pleasure, as well as my own, for I received a 
better room amidships. It is an outside room and 
I am well pleased. We have had a white squall, 
during which the sea was lashed into foam. 

To-day we have been passing through a great 
number of islands, one of which is the Isle of 
Patmos, to which John was banished. Instead 
of pining away in banishment, he gave to the 
world the wonderful Book of Revelations, which 
is the consummation of the New Testament Scrip- 
tures. What wonderful surroundings. One has 
well said that to sail through Grecian waters is 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 83 

to float through history. The city of Athens is 
now in full view, and our pilot has come aboard. 

We have remained here at anchor all after- 
noon, as the wind is too high for our ship to 
enter the harbor. If the wind does not abate, 
we shall not land at all, and our disappointment 
will be very great. Our Captain is very careful, 
but we still have hope of landing. Here we are 
in view of the Acropolis, and Mars' Hill, where 
Paul delivered his wonderful discourse in setting 
forth the doctrine of the Christian religion. I 
think cruising is a good school in which to cul- 
tivate the grace of patience, yet some of our party 
seem very deficient in this virtue. We all hope 
to land, but fear that we may not. Patrick Henry 
once said "When our fears correspond with the 
danger, the danger is past." 

March 16 : This morning at an early hour our 
ship raised the anchor and steamed into the har- 
bor. At Piraeus we boarded the train for Athens, 
which is five miles distant. W T e are now visiting 
this celebrated city, and are much impressed with 
the general appearance of cleanliness everywhere. 
Our present impression is that the Greek is far 
superior to the Turk. Good sanitary conditions 
prevail everywhere; clean streets, and houses 
which look like home. 

After leaving the train, we secured a guide, 
and are fortunate in having an educated Greek, 



84 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

who speaks English quite well. We first visited 
the Theseum Temple, built 430 B. C, after which 
the Temples of Jupiter and Minerva were viewed, 
and then we ascended Mars' Hill. Standing on 
the spot where the apostle Paul preached his great 
sermon to the Athenians, I took my Bible, and 
turning to the seventeenth chapter of Acts, read 
the chapter aloud to the audience. Athens, the 
great seat of learning, was the home of Socrates, 
Demosthenes and many immortal sages of Greece, 
All about us are splendid ruins of such great 
magnitude that it would require many pages to 
describe the tenth part. 

This afternoon we visited Dr. Schliemann's 
Museum of Antiquities and saw many statues 
taken out by the excavators. Some were exceed- 
ingly beautiful and convinced us that the Grecian 
artist put his very soul into his work. Another 
object of interest was the Tower of the Winds. 
The ancient Greek worshipped the wind, and he 
built this tower in the form of an octagon, so that 
its angles were directed not only to the four 
cardinal points, but also to the northeast, north- 
west, southeast and southwest. 

Next we were taken to the Palace and shown 
the Throne of King George, which was very fine, 
but not equal to that in the Palace of the Sultan. 
We were all pleased and much impressed with the 
educational institutions, which betoken the high 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 85 

ideals of the Greek in the building of character. 
Athens, the seat of learning in the days of Soc- 
rates, is still holding up its banner for the highest 
type of mental culture. Our guide is an excellent 
linguist and well versed in ancient lore, thus 
making our visit to the points of interest a great 
pleasure. We shall sleep aboard ship to-night, 
as she lies at anchor in the bay of Salamis. To- 
day we saw a funeral procession in which the 
corpse, that of a young woman, was borne 
through the streets with face uncovered, on the 
way to the Greek Church. After the funeral serv- 
ices, the body was placed in a hearse and con- 
veyed to the cemetery. 

March 17 : Morning is bright and the air soft. 
The country lying between Piraeus and Athens 
is much like that of southern California and it 
did our hearts good to see wheat and olive trees 
growing in the same field. We have visited 
Athens to-day and again returned to the ship, the 
whistle of which was sounded, calling to us to 
bid farewell to classic Greece. We can say fare- 
well, but we shall never forget. 

Everyone is astir aboard ship and the venders 
of various kinds of trinkets and souvenirs are 
rapidly packing their goods to go ashore. The 
whistle sounds again, the anchor is lifted, and 
our ship sails out of the Salamis Bay into the 
Aegean Sea and points her prow toward Naples, 



86 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

as night settles down over the sea and darkness 
upon the deep ; but not so in the brilliant salon 
of the New England, where a fine stereopticon 
lecture is given on Rome, Naples and Pompeii. 
Our party retire, all expressing themselves de- 
lighted with their visit to Athens. During the 
night we pass numerous islands, but have not 
heard of their historic importance. 

March 18: The sea is choppy and very few- 
guests are at the table. The bright cheerful look 
has faded from the faces of the passengers, the 
ladies, as usual, seeming to suffer most. 

Religious services were held in the forward 
salon this forenoon. To-day is wearing away and 
no land in sight, but we have the promise of 
being in Naples at six o'clock to-morrow morn- 
ing. At 4 p. m. we listened to a good gospel 
sermon delivered by a Presbyterian minister, Rev. 
James Ross. His text was "I am crucified with 
Christ, nevertheless I live ; yet not I, but Christ 
liveth in me, and the life that I now live in the 
flesh, I live by the faith of the Son of God, who 
loved me and gave Himself for me." This dis- 
course, delivered to us while far at sea, was up- 
lifting and soul refreshing. The day has passed, 
and we are entering the strait between Sicily and 
Italy. Some of our party are making ready to 
leave the ship at Rome. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 87 



CHAPTER XII. 



NAPLES AND POMPEII. 



My soul to-day 
Is far away 

Sailing the Vesuvian Bay; 
My winged boat 

A bird afloat 
Swims round the purple peaks remote. 

Round purple peaks 
It sails and seeks 

Blue inlets and their crystal creeks. 
Where high rocks throw 

Through deeps below 
A duplicated golden glow. 



Far vague and dim 
The mountains swim 

While on Vesuvius' misty brim 
With outstretched hands 

The gray smoke stands 
O'erlooking the volcanic lands. 



Here Ischia smiles 
O'er liquid miles 

And yonder bluest of the isles 
Calm Capri waits 

Her sapphire gates 
Beguiling to her bright estates.— Read. 



88 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

March 19: Monday. Our ship was detained 
in the Strait of Messina, and we are several hours 
behind schedule time. The Italian sun and air 
begin to send life through the ship's party, and all 
are astir. We are passing the Isle of Capri, with 
its wonderful Blue Grotto and Sorrento, the home 
of Tasso. Some of our party will visit the Grotto, 
but fears are entertained that the sea will run too 
high for entrance. This forenoon our ship an- 
chored in the beautiful Bay of Naples. On the 
shore gardens are growing, trees are blooming, 
and the air is soft as velvet. We were carried 
ashore in steam tenders, and thence in carriages 
to the station where we took the train for 
Pompeii. 

On arriving at the buried city we secured an 
Italian guide who could speak English and visited 
the Museum, where we saw many exhumed 
bodies of the unfortunate people. These bodies, 
nearly two thousand years old, were in an excel- 
lent state of preservation. But more marvelous 
to see are the disinterred houses, baths, temples, 
amphitheatres, and stately dwellings. The fres- 
coing on the walls showed its color as bright as 
the day it was placed there by the hand of the 
Italian artist. Some of the buildings showed 
commodious apartments, decorated with beauti- 
ful mosaics. The streets showed the very marks 
worn in the pavement by chariot wheels. What 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 89 

a vast amount of work was required to remove 
the ashes and lava from this buried city, but the 
treasures unearthed have richly repaid the arche- 
ologist for his labor. Whatever else may be 
false or counterfeit, these things before us are 
real and present to view the ruins of a city, which 
in the midst of affluence and a high state of cul- 
ture, was in one short day sent to its grave for a 
slumber of two thousand years. While walking 
those silent streets and standing amid the ruined 
walls of those once beautiful homes, I thought of 
Glaucus, Sallust, lone, and Nydia, the blind 
flower girl spoken of in Lord Lytton's book, "The 
Last Days of Pompeii." 

THE ROMAN SENTINEL. 

* "Darkly o'er a Roman city, 

Monstrous clouds were rolling by, 
Lightnings flashed and deep toned thunders 

Loudly rumbled through the sky; 
While the earth was wildly rocking, 

As a ship upon the sea 
Falls and rises on the billows, 

When the storm winds are set free. 



S ?t u : c t. ere insert a poem which was recited in 
High School 27 years ago. I do not know the author, 
and possess the poem only in memory. While visit- 
ing Pompeii in August, 1891, I was shown the city's 
gate so faithfully kept by the hero of this poem, whose 
body was found 'in an angle in the wall."— E. A. B 



90 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

"Rivers of consuming fire 

Rolled adown the mountain side, 
Over vineyards bright and lovely, 

Over meadows far and wide ; 
While the smoke and falling ashes, 

Filled the black and sultry air, 
Weirdly lighted by the lightning, 

And the mountain's lurid glare. 

"At the city's gate in armor 

Stood a Roman sentinel, 
Past him ran the rushing rabble, 

'Round him dust and ashes fell ; 
Proud and firm with mail clad fingers 

Clasped about his gleaming spear, 
Heeding nothing but his duty, 

Feeling neither hope nor fear. 

"Onward rushed the frighted people 

Fleeing from the fiery tide, 
Darker grew the air around him, 

Still he stood with sullen pride, 
Boldly gazing, fiercely frowning, 

At the fast approaching flame, 
Till at last a look of anguish 

O'er his swarthy features came. 

"Far away his thoughts were drifting 

To the distant hills of Rome, 
Where, beside the yellow Tiber, 

He had left his humble home. 
And he seemed to hear a matron 

Bidding him no longer stay, 
Mingled with his children's voices 

Calling him to come away. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 91 

"Sweet the vision, sad, but fleeting, 

To himself he firmly said, 
Never has a Roman warrior 

From his post of duty fled. 
Though the mouth of hell engulf me, 

I will boldly meet my fate, 
I will show the Roman legions 

How to keep the city's gate. 

"Then the black cloud creeping lower 

Blotted out the lurid light, 
Like a deluge from the ocean 

Sweeping o'er the land at night, 
And a flood of falling ashes 

Coming from the midnight skies, 
Buried deep that fated city 

From the sight of human eyes. 

"In the endless march of ages 

Centuries crept slowly past, 
Islands rose amid the ocean, 

Mountains disappeared at last, 
Rippling rivers changed their courses, 

Empires crumbled to decay, 
Glorious cities went to ruin, 

Mighty nations passed away. 

"Once again a human footstep, 

In that ancient city falls, 
And in melancholy beauty, 

Gleams the warm light on its walls. 
Graven on enduring marble, 

Pictured in the crumbling clay, 
Is the story of the glory 

Of a power passed away. 



92 A JOUENEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

"Standing in his time worn armor 

Still in death, erect and tall, 
There they found the Roman soldier 

In an angle in the wall. 
Still his bony hand was firmly 

Clasped about his rusted spear, 
Still he told to after ages, 

That a Roman knew no fear. 

"Hero of that silent city 

By your bold and tragic fate, 
You have shown the Roman legions 

How to keep a city's gate. 
With a soul by death undaunted 

When a storm of fire swept past, 
By no human terror haunted, 

You were faithful to the last." 

Musing on the mutability of all earthly things, 
I turned thoughtfully away from these silent 
streets to other scenes. 

Those who climbed to the summit of Mt. Ve- 
suvius, say they did not see much, and complained 
of a hard trip. From our present position we 
can see a cloud of smoke arising from the vol- 
cano, and during the night, flashes of fire lit up 
the sky. Vesuvius is no longer a thing of wonder 
here. If, however, the volcano should become 
active, as in the days when Pompeii was blotted 
out, the people in the surrounding country would 
again become terror stricken. 

Taking the train, I was borne along the shores 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 93 

of the bay to the city of Naples, where carriages 
were waiting. In driving about the city, we 
marvelled at its beauty. The streets were 
thronged with well-dressed people, who seemed 
to be holding a high holiday. This forenoon I 
received mail from America which thrilled me 
with delight. How sweet, in a foreign land, to 
hear from those we love. To-morrow we shall 
have another drive over the city before proceed- 
ing to Rome. 

March 20 : The bright morning, soft air, and 
beautiful Italian skies, inspire one for the day. 
We slept sweetly on the ship anchored in the Bay 
of Naples. All is astir on board, as many passen- 
gers leave the ship here, some remaining in 
Naples, and others proceeding to Rome. 

12 m.: I have just returned from a drive ^ 
through the city of Naples. We visited the 
Aquarium and saw many species of strange fish, 
many of which were of brilliant color and to me 
of unknown order. Among those which inter- 
ested us was the Nautilus, concerning which 
Oliver Wendell Holmes wrote his noted poem. 
This Aquarium is connected with a college, and 
forms a part of the Zoological Department, for 
which it affords specimens for study. We also 
visited the Museum, which contains many master- 
pieces of sculpture and painting, and a vast col- 
lection of relics of antiquity. 



94 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

At 3 p. m. we left Naples for Rome, 118 miles 
distant. While passing through the farming dis- 
tricts we were impressed by the beauty of the 
Italian valleys, every foot of which appeared to 
be under cultivation. We saw only one plow 
during this entire trip, as the soil, which appeared 
to be rich, is always turned over with a spade 
instead of a plow. In many fields we saw com- 
panies of spaders, working abreast, turning over 
the soil; sometimes a man and his wife; and 
again a young man and his best girl were seen 
side by side, spading. The Italians use cattle for 
work, and we saw many, which were very large, 
beautiful and white, drawing loads. Many of the 
trees which had evidently been planted, were 
trimmed closely at the top, and at the foot of each 
tree, a grape vine had been planted and trained 
to run up the tree which was its support. The 
vines were trained from tree to tree, thus giving 
a very pleasing appearance. At 9 p. M. we 
reached Rome, the Eternal City. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 95 



CHAPTER XIII. 

ROME. 

Yet this is Rome, that sate on her seven hills, 
And from her throne of beauty ruled the world. 

— Mitford. 

March 21 : This forenoon we had a drive over 
the old Appian Way, and while passing over its 
well worn stones, I thought of Saint Paul when 
he took courage, at seeing the three taverns. This 
paved highway is still in a good state of preserva- 
tion. Next we visited the Catacombs, those un- 
derground sepulchres of the dead, which extend 
three stories beneath the surface. We were con- 
ducted through its dark passageways by an intel- 
ligent monk, to whom explaining things to us 
seemed to be a real pleasure. Here we saw many 
paintings, wrought in the second and third cen- 
turies, which, we were told, are of much value in 
settling many points of controversy. There are 
twelve miles of Catacombs open, and seventeen 
miles yet to open. We next visited the Church 
of San Giovanni in Laterano, which one must 
see to appreciate. It is certainly a marvel of 
aesthetic splendor. In a grotto underneath, is a 



96 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

masterpiece in marble representing Christ's de- 
scent from the cross. A light is kept burning 
near this statue. 

Our drive along the Appian Way brought us 
out into the country which environs the city. The 
soil appears productive and well cultivated. The 
old Roman Aqueduct traverses this part of the 
Campagna and is a very impressive relic of the 
past. On all sides of us are seen ruins of the 
primitive glory of Rome. This afternoon we vis- 
ited shops, banks and stores, and also took a walk 
across the Tiber, passing over a massive stone 
bridge and returning over a modern steel struc- 
ture. The Tiber is a muddy river ; at least it was 
very muddy when I saw it, but this may have 
been caused by recent rains. 

A gentleman from Canada, and I, took a long 
walk through the most important streets, among 
which is the famous street, Corso, and we also 
visited the Fountain of the Tritons, which pours 
forth copious streams of pure water. 

March 2.2\ Thursday. I rested well during 
the night and am ready for the day's trip. This 
forenoon we visited St. Peter's Cathedral, which 
I shall not attempt to describe as I do not feel 
equal to the task. We also visited the Vatican 
and saw paintings by Raphael and Michael 
Angelo. Our guide told us that these paintings 
are the finest in the world. No words from my 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 97 

pen can portray the life-like scenes of the Vatican 
Palace as presented on canvas. Some of the 
paintings which impressed me most, were The 
Transfiguration of Christ, The Martyred Jerome, 
Working of Miracles, The Life of Jesus, showing 
scenes from the various periods of his life, and 
The Bathes of Constantine. 

This afternoon I am sitting on a step at the 
Roman Forum. Here is the Basilica of Constan- 
tine, of which only three great arches remain. 
The ruins of the Forum are too vast for me to 
record in detail. On every side are remains of 
ancient mosaic floors, broken columns, and fallen 
arches. Here the halls echoed to the tread of the 
Caesars ! 

How many momentous events have occurred 
in the old Forum Romanum, which was the 
throbbing heart of the Eternal City of the Roman 
Empire. Here Catiline was made to feel the 
scorching power of the oratory of the mighty 
Cicero. Near the Forum are the ruins of the 
palaces of the Caesars, the Triumphal Arch of 
Titus, the Golden House of Nero, and the Coli- 
seum, all of which in their fallen condition, are 
but a faint shadow of their former greatness. As 
I stand near the Coliseum, I remember that some 
of the greatest or earth's tragedys occurred here, 
where gladiators fought in the arena, and Chris- 
tians were thrown to wild beasts. Here Sparta- 



98 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

cus, we are told, for "twelve long years met 
upon the arena every shape of man or beast the 
broad Empire of Rome could furnish, and never 
lowered his arm." 

My visit to the Coliseum shall never be forgot- 
ten. As I stood amidst the awesome ruins of 
the amphitheatre I was almost overcome with 
wonder at its magnitude, and I remembered that 
it was largely built by captive Jews, who groaned 
under the yoke of Rome." No one can form a 
proper conception of the greatness of Rome with- 
out visiting it, and sitting down amidst its 
temples, monuments, columns, amphitheatres, 
statues, sepulchres, palaces, baths, arches, and 
other remains of its former greatness. 

Modern Rome is a beautiful city with an excel- 
lent municipal government. The sanitary condi- 
tions are good and this is very noticeable to the 
tourists after visiting Cairo, Jerusalem and Con- 
stantinople. Our party are now gathering to hear 
the lecture. 

We have taken a drive on Corso, the finest 
street of the city, and afterwards visited the 
Gardens on Pincian Hill, from whose lofty ele- 
vation we beheld the whole city, the Campagna 
beyond, and farther away the sea as it melts into 
the dim line of the horizon. From this hill, the 
greatness of St. Peter's Cathedral is revealed. To 
my mind, it is the greatest of all churches of its 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. \)\) 

kind. From this hill, we have a fine view of the 
Arch of Titus, which was erected to commemo- 
rate the conquest of Jerusalem. We saw a clock 
in the Pincian Gardens running by water power. 
A number of years ago this beautiful hill was a 
deserted waste, where the ghost of Nero was be- 
lieved to have wandered in the Middle Ages. 

Our lecturer told us that Vesta was the God- 
dess of Fire. She was a virgin divinity, and 
maidens called Vestal Virgins kept the fire burn- 
ing. These virgins were ten years learning, ten 
years practicing, and ten years teaching. At the 
age of thirty they were permitted to go, mingle 
with society, and marry if they chose. They 
were commanded to lead a chaste, virtuous life, 
and if any violated these commands, they were 
buried alive. We were told that a few sad exam- 
ples are recorded. 

March 23: Friday. This is our last day in 
Rome. It rained during the night, but the 
weather is clearing. I made a few purchases to- 
day, and found the stores finer than I anticipated. 
Our hotel accommodations have been the best that 
we have had since leaving New York. The Ital- 
ian language is the mother tongue here, but the 
French language is also used considerably. I 
have greatly enjoyed my stay in Rome, but must 
soon go away, no doubt forever. I have been 
stopping at the National Hotel. 

LOFC, 



100 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

March 24 : This is the day we had planned to 
start for Naples, to take the ship for Nice, Monte 
Carlo, and the Riviera, and accordingly, arrange- 
ments had been made for an early breakfast. The 
steward came to our room and informed us of a 
telegram received from Naples, which states that 
our party cannot leave Rome to-day. Our curios- 
ity is greatly aroused. At breakfast the bulletin- 
board stated that we would not go to Naples, but 
that our baggage was on the way to Rome. Our 
fears are thoroughly aroused and we hear rumors 
of sickness aboard the ship. What will be the 
result of all this? What has become of my bag- 
gage, which is somewhat scattered, part of my 
clothing being in the laundry ? Will they put all 
the baggage together and fumigate it, and shall I 
lose a part or all of my belongings? I must be 
patient and await further developments. 

10 a. m. I have just returned from Hotel 
Minerva, where I have heard that Mrs. Thomp- 
son, wife of Captain Thompson, has died of Sy- 
rian fever aboard the ship at Naples. Three of 
our party have died since the cruise began. We 
are still in suspense concerning our future. Our 
manager's arrival from Naples may dispel our 
fears and set all things right. May the same 
Hand that has led us through our long sea voy- 
age still continue to lead us until we return to 
our homes. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 101 

We have just learned that our baggage will be 
sent from Naples to our respective hotels. Here 
is another problem, as Dr. Humphrey and I oc- 
cupied the same stateroom, and our things were 
not all packed. We are quartered at different 
hotels in Rome, but now we must find each other 
and then find and separate our baggage. We are 
also informed that we are now on our own ex- 
pense. This does not please us, and we hope that 
it will not continue long. We are still waiting to 
hear something further, but are kept in suspense. 

At last we have received our sentence, which 
has come to us with a crash: Smallpox on the 
ship. Our baggage was thrown together and sent 
to Rome after us. We must get out of the city 
as soon as possible at our own expense. I have 
seldom seen such excitement. Some of the ladies 
cried, and all our hearts are made sad, but we are 
told to keep quiet or we shall be quarantined. We 
were informed that the ship would leave Naples, 
but that none of us must think of going aboard. 
Imagine our feelings, so far from home, and now 
on our own responsibility and any moment liable 
to be detained in quarantine. 

March 25 : Three carloads of baggage have 
arrived from Naples. Every stateroom was 
cleared, and our baggage was very much mixed, 
but I think each one finally received his own, as 
each one's baggage was marked by the number of 



102 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

his stateroom. What a time there was claiming 
baggage. Three of the party and I, after secur- 
ing our belongings, procured tickets and took the 
first train for Florence. Our party was like a 
frightened flock of quails, darting out from under 
a brush heap and scattering everywhere. The 
intention is to again meet the ship at Liverpool. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 103 



CHAPTER XIV. 



FROM ROME TO LONDON. 

Singing through the forests 
Rattling over ridges 

Shooting under arches 
Rumbling over bridges, 

Whizzing through the mountain, 
Buzzing o'er the vale, 

Bless me! this is pleasant, 
Riding on the rail. — Saxe. 

March 26: I am quartered in an excellent 
hotel in Florence, where I arrived last evening. 
On our way here we passed many beautiful villas 
in the valley of the Tiber, and had fine views of 
the vine clad hills of Italy. This district is de- 
voted to grape culture, and the honey produced 
here is superior to any I have ever eaten. The 
employees at our hotel excel in good manners, and 
politeness appears to be the normal condition 
everywhere. This afternoon I must take a hasty 
view of the city and then start for Paris. I find 
it hard work to travel so rapidly. The population 
of Florence is 180,000. I must seek for a Cook's 
Office and secure my ticket for Paris, and also 
exchange my money into English or French cur- 
rency. This constant change of currency in trav- 



104 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

eling is very inconvenient, and often occasions 
considerable loss to the tourist, since there are 
those who take advantage of him. 

We took the train this afternoon enroute for 
Paris, and have passed through some beautiful 
scenery. Some of the mountain sides wer ter- 
raced. The train is now stopping in Bologna. 

March 27 : We traveled all night and at dawn 
were crossing the Alps into the Republic of 
Switzerland, and while on top of the mountains 
we encountered a snow storm. The morning is 
cold. We have had an interesting time in passing 
from one country to another, changing cars, and 
having our baggage inspected by the Custom 
House officials. 

The part of France through which we are now 
passing does not possess as much rich farming 
land as I had expected, and therefore the people 
live mostly in villages. We passed through many 
fine villages and cities after leaving Switzerland 
and saw considerable timber land. The people 
here use a good deal of willow, and also cultivate 
it. In some places we saw women working in the 
fields. After we entered France, our train ran 
very fast. 

March 28: Wednesday. We arrived safe in 
Paris last evening, and stopped at a hotel con- 
venient to the station. After satisfying the inner 
man, and walking about a little, we retired and 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 105 

slept well under feathers, which covering is quite 
common in this country. This morning the 
weather is cold, and we feel unprepared for low 
temperatures. 

This trip across the continent of Europe is not 
for the purpose of sight-seeing, but for the pur- 
pose of meeting our ship at Liverpool. We had 
finished our entire cruise as planned, with the ex- 
ception of one day's sight-seeing at Nice, Monte 
Carlo and the Riviera. We feel that after all in 
exchanging sight-seeing at these places for a 
trans-continental trip, and a glance at London 
and Paris, we have not been the loser. 

The lectures provided for us on our cruise 
were very instructive and helpful, and reflected 
great credit on the eminent gentlemen who de- 
livered them. The subjects and speakers were 
as follows: 

"Madeira and Algiers," by Rev. Cortland 
Myers, D.D., of Brooklyn, N. Y. 

"Gibraltar and Malta," by Rev. A. Z. Conrad, 
D.D., of Worcester, Mass. 

"Jerusalem and the Land of Promise," by 
Rev. W. H. Penhallegon, D.D., of Decatur, 111. 

"Naples and Pompeii," by Rev. A. Z. Conrad, 
D.D., of Worcester, Mass. 

"Constantinople and its Conquest by the 
Turks," by Prof. Van Millingen, of Robert Col- 
lege, Constantinople^ Turkey. 



106 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

"Rome and St. Peter's," by Prof. L. Reynaud, 
of Rome Italy. 

"The Forum," by Prof. L. Reynaud, of Rome, 
Italy. 

The following five lectures were given by Prof. 
Geo. B. Penney, of the University of Kansas, 
Lawrence, Kansas: 

"Memphis and the Old Empire, or Lower 
Egypt," 

"The Monuments of Thebes and the New 
Empire, or Upper Egypt," 

"Round About Constantinople, Smyrna, and 
Ephesus," 

"The Old and New Athens," 

"The Antiquities of Rome." 

We have seen Paris as if by lightning, and are 
now on our way to London. The country in this 
part of France is beautiful and adapted to agricul- 
ture. We are soon to cross the English Chan- 
nel. 

March 29: We found a rough channel to 
cross, but I rested well. This morning we are 
on English soil and among English speaking peo- 
ple. We have been so long among peoples of 
other languages that England seems very home- 
like. We enjoyed our short stay in France, but 
I think we shall enjoy England better. 

We are now on the train speeding toward Lon- 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 107 

don, and are very thankful that we are not ill or 
quarantined in Rome. At 8 a. m. we are at 
New Croyden, England. The cold weather this 
morning affects us considerably, having become 
somewhat accustomed to the tropics. From our 
car window England appears to be well kept and 
the towns and villages numerous. 

Later : We have arrived in London, and after 
partaking of a good breakfast, have been enjoying 
a few of the sights of this great city. First we 
visited the Parliament buildings, then Westmin- 
ster Abbey, and Nelson's Monument, after which 
we strolled through some of the principal streets. 

5 p. m. : We are now in Liverpool, a distance 
of 200 miles from London. The day has been 
fine and our ride to this city was most delightful. 
We passed one of the homes of one of the Roths- 
childs and saw many of his race horses grazing 
in the fields. The country is well farmed, has 
many flocks of sheep, and was a delight to the eye. 
Our train ran very fast, on as good a roadbed as 
I ever passed over. The cars are little coaches 
with no conductor or brakeman passing through. 
Four of us occupied one of the coaches. 



108 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 



CHAPTER XV. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



Home, kindred, friends and country — these 
Are the ties from which we never part ; 

From clime to clime, o'er land and seas 
We bear them in our heart. — Montgomery. 



We are stopping at the Nelson Hotel, and have 
met several Americans from New York. This is 
the terminus of our long land trip, and to reach 
it we have traveled 1400 miles from Rome. Our 
baggage, or luggage, as the English say, has been 
a great care. It is a gOod thing to have, but incon- 
venient while traveling here, and I am glad that I 
had no steamer trunk to look after. I lost my 
mackintosh by leaing it on the train either in Italy 
or .Switzerland, and discovered the loss to late to 
recover the missing garment. 

As I have looked over England to-day, I have 
remembered many things which our friend, Mrs. 
Anne Kendall, used to relate to us concerning the 
mother country. 

March 30: Friday. I remained in Liverpool 
last night with Mr. Beltz, one of our party with 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 109 

whom I have traveled from Rome. The morning 
is quite cold but I must go out and seek some in- 
formation in regard to our steamship, we are not 
yet free from suspense and I trust that the de- 
velopments of this day will bring permanent 
relief. Happily for us, our sight-seeing was 
almost at an end before the trouble came. If it 
had occurred at Cairo our trip would have been 
a failure. Personally, I have had a very profita- 
ble journey although at times some anxiety, as 
we know not what an hour may bring forth. 

4 o'clock p. m. : We are standing on the dock 
and our dear old New England is before us at 
anchor in the middle of the Mersey River. Some 
of the bystanders say that she has smallpox 
aboard and is quarantined ; others say that the 
tide is out and that she cannot dock until high 
tide. We have been somewhat amused in asking 
people questions in regard to her as they stand 
gazing from the dock. One man said that her 
name is the Canada. We noticed two ragged 
looking boys looking on and we approached them 
and asked them the name of the ship. One boy 
replied "The New England, sir. She has been 
off on a cruise to the Mediterranean with a lot 
of millionaires." We asked how many million- 
aires there were in the party. He replied, "O, 
there was a lot of them." We did not tell the 
boy that we were of the number. 



110 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

March 31 : Saturday. I am feeling well this 
morning. We shall start for Portland, Maine, 
on the steamship Cambroman, which leaves from 
Princess Dock at 3:30 p. m. to-day. After so 
long a journey the thought of turning our faces 
homeward is a cheering one. We have enjoyed 
looking about the docks and shipping of Liver- 
pool, which are immense. 

Later : We left Liverpool aboard the Cambro- 
man on time. We parted from a Mr. Dingwall, 
a dear, good man who has been with us on the 
long journey, and as he waived us good-bye he 
appeared to be much affected by the separation. 
This is a staunch ship with a good name and be- 
longs to the Dominion Line. She is pronounced 
seaworthy, but I apprehend that she will roll con- 
siderably during the homeward voyage. 

April 1 : Far out at sea again. This ship, un- 
like the New England, rolls and pitches much to 
our discomfort, but we hope to reach home bye 
and bye. How very much isolated one feels 
when at sea, and how fully he appreciates the 
saying, "Out at sea." There is a clergyman with 
me named Beltz, from whom I shall part at 
Portland. 

April 2 : Monday. The sun shines brightly 
but the air is cold. We are farther out in the 
sea to-day and the ship is still rocking. I in- 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. Ill 

tended to write to-day but the ship's motion is 
not favorable to writing. 

We have aboard 254 boys from seven to twenty 
years of age, who have come from Dr. Barnar- 
do's Home, and are on their way to Toronto, 
Canada, where they will be received into a Home 
and from there distributed to people who desire 
to take them. Those taking a boy to rear will 
be paid for their trouble. Boys from sixteen to 
twenty will go to Dr. Barnardo's farm of 10,000 
acres, where they will learn farm work. I am 
informed that the doctor is a gentleman of Irish 
descent who has been engaged in this work for 
thirty-three years. Many of the little boys are 
now out on deck, and some look as though they 
needed a mother's attention, but the poor children 
are all orphans. Many of the youths have a 
bright and intelligent appearance. 

Mr. Geo. G. Mitchell, who is Superintendent 
for Dr. Barnardo, told me the following touching 
story: "A woman was found on the Thames 
embankment in London, in an unconscious con- 
dition. Two children were clinging to her. At 
first it was thought she was intoxicated, so she 
was taken to the Police Station. When restored 
to consciousness it was discovered that she was 
dying of starvation. She was taken to a hospital 
where she died. The boy and girl were taken to 
Dr. Barnardo's Home, where they were brought 



112 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

up to respectable manhood and womanhood. The 
boy became a physician, and the girl is now the 
wife of a Presbyterian minister." This is only 
one story among hundreds, illustrating the work 
which this humane institution is doing. 

It is now raining and our ship rolls and pitches 
considerably. There are some indications of an 
approaching storm. The captain told me that we 
should be 10 days at sea. The time now begins 
to seem long. 

April 3 : Tuesday. I retired early and rested 
well. To-day the sun shines, the sea runs high 
and the ship rolls, but we are rolling homeward. 
There is not much news on shipboard. The 
bugle is calling for breakfast. Later : It is even- 
ing. A storm has been raging all day and the 
sea breaks over the deck while the wind blows 
fiercely. I certainly have seen a storm at sea, 
but while it is still on I shall retire, knowing that 
my Father holds it in his hand. 

April 4. Wednesday morning: The wind is 
blowing a hurricane and the sea runs very high. 
Our ship with her powerful engines is still plow- 
ing her way on through the crested waves of the 
stormy Atlantic. I have often desired to expe- 
rience a storm at sea, and now I have had all 
that anyone could wish for. The sailors are ad- 
justing the ropes on the lifeboats, which makes 
one think that they are on the alert for danger. 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 113 

Last night at nine o'clock the engines stopped. 
To have such a thing occur in mid-ocean while 
a storm was on, produced a strange sensation. 
We soon ascertained that it was because some 
of the machinery had become heated. The pas- 
sengers are much affected by the storm. 

This evening we shall be half way between 
Liverpool and Portland. My people are not ad- 
vised as to my whereabouts, but I trust the sea 
will calm and all things end well. The grand old 
New England is lying at Liverpool, but I shall 
probably reach home before she starts for Boston. 

James H. Moore is captain of the steamship 
Cambroman. The crew numbers 188, there are 
three engines,, the length of the vessel is 430 feet, 
beam 46 feet, five decks, speed 13^2 knots. She 
has made 75 voyages. 

April 5 : I rested tolerably well but awoke 
realizing the ship was rolling at a fearful rate, 
with the great waves breaking over her decks 
and dashing with tremendous force against the 
cabin windows. O, this restless sea — these os- 
cillating waves. 



"Type of the Infinite ! I look away 
Over thy billows, and I cannot stay 

My thought upon a resting place, or make 
A shore beyond my vision, where they break; 

But on my spirit stretches, till it's pain 
To think; then rests, and then puts forth again." 



114 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

I can scarcely write these lines because of the 
ship's motion. There were more passengers at 
the meal this morning than usual, but I fear this 
rough sea will cause a return of their former 
seasickness. The American tourist can endure 
a certain amount of seasickness with equanimity 
because every revolution of the propeller drives 
the ship toward home. We regret that just now 
the propeller is too much of the time out of water, 
beating the air. Our ship has made 244 knots 
to-day. A Scotch passenger, in religious talk, 
said that the sword of God's justice was not 
broken on the knee of mercy, but only sheathed 
in the scabbard of the atonement. 

P. M. : The sea is becoming more quiet, the 
air warmer, and it is pleasant on deck. The 
darkness of night is descending upon us. After 
a pleasant interview with Superintendent 
Mitchell, I have retired to my stateroom. 

April 6: The sea is delightfully calm this 
morning. I discover a ship far to the south- 
east. She is a sailing vessel and evidently has 
experienced rough weather, as one mast is gone 
and the sails are badly shattered. Whence she 
comes and whither bound, none of us know. 

How majestic is the ocean to-day. The pas- 
sengers are on deck in a merry mood and even 
the stern old captain is playing at shuffle-board. 
Many young ladies who have been kept in their 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 115 

state rooms during the storm now appear on deck 
in bright colors. O, how the warm sun and 
breeze exhilarates. The sea is smooth, and the 
Cambroman is making good time. It cannot sail 
too fast for the travel-worn tourists. 

I meet a good many English passengers aboard 
who are anxious to have me tell them of my 
trip to the Orient. My experience on this jour- 
ney is worth a great deal to me. Evening is 
approaching. Soon we shall retire for another 
night at sea. I wonder how all things are at 
home in America. To-day the log registered 
299 knots, which is better than yesterday. I have 
been reading Mark Twain's "innocents Abroad," 
or "The New Pilgrim's Progress." What a 
humorous way he has of putting things. 

April 7 : We are in a heavy fog with the ship 
rolling and pitching. This is the eighth day out 
at sea and I feel like being ashore again. This 
morning before sunrise, when daylight began to 
chase the shadow from off the deep, I was awak- 
ened by the sound of the ship's whistle. Sup- 
posing another vessel to be passing, I arose to see 
the stranger, and opening my state room window 
and thrusting out my head, I found myself in a 
fog bank thicker than you can imagine. Then I 
knew the sound which I heard was only the fog 
horn. I returned to bed thankful that I had a 
bed, and the old ship continued to speed along. 



116 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

At 5 :oo p. m. to-day, I was called upon to 
perform the funeral services of a child. Although 
I have conducted the same services many times 
on land, out at sea there was something unusually 
solemn in the service. There were a goodly num- 
ber on deck to attend the services, and the grief 
of the poor mother was very great. At the 
proper time the ship slowed down, and, as the 
words of the service were pronounced, "We now 
commit the body to the deep," two young men 
who had the little form in charge tipped the board 
and the little one's body dropped into the sea, 
there to remain until "the sea shall give up her 
dead" in the glorious resurrection morn. 

April 8: This is Sunday morning, and before 
another Sunday I hope to be at my home. The 
day is bright but the ship rolls terribly. I held 
religious services in the salon, preaching from 
John 14:9. We had a precious hour out on the 
great ocean. How sweet it is thus to honor God 
in His service. We are now on the upper deck. 
The sun is warm but the wind cold. Sunday 
evening : The captain of the ship has come to me 
and asked if I would hold divine service. 

April 9. Monday morning : The day is bright 
and sea smooth. We shall be in Halifax at 9 :oo 
p. m. this evening. From our upper deck we 
see three ships, two of which are fishing smacks, 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 117 

and the third a steamer bound for some port un- 
known to us. 

Passengers who have been shut off from land 
for many days find a ship at sea an object of 
great interest. We have not seen land since 
March 31, but have faced some rough seas which 
will make our landing a source of greater delight. 
We sighted land this afternoon. 

The land was a cheering sight to us even if 
it was the rugged and formidable shores on which 
Halifax is situated. We arrived at Halifax at 
9:00 p. m. Nearly all the passengers disem- 
barked, leaving the ship quite lonely. 

April 10 : Tuesday. There was so much con- 
fusion during the night that I did not sleep well. 
This morning I find myself the only remaining 
tourist aboard. I have become anxious to reach 
home. The interesting part of our famous trip 
has ended and now home is the best place after 

all. 

I have just had a very pleasant interview with 
the captain and Dr. Smylie, the ship's surgeon. 
These gentlemen are very courteous and our in- 
terview contributed greatly to my enjoyment. 
The chief steward, Frank James, was very kind 
to me during the return voyage. The name of 
my table steward is James Martin, and my bed- 
room steward is Hugh Roberts. Both are fine 
fellows and were very companionable during 



118 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 

the voyage of eleven days across the stormy At- 
lantic. 

April ii: I awoke this morning in the beauti- 
ful harbor of Portland, Me. The magic touch 
of one's native land stirs every drop of patriotic 
blood in the veins of a true American. 



"Breathes there a man with soul so dead, 
Who never to himself hath said, 

This is my own, my native land? 
Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned. 
As home his footsteps he hath turned, 

From wandering on a foreign strand." 



How beautiful the flag appears on the shore 
after the long voyage. Soon I shall be off for 
Boston, and then New York, where I shall meet 
loved ones. 

The day is bright, breakfast over, stewards all 
tipped, and I am ready to go ashore. 9:00 a. m. : 
I have left the ship Cambroman, ended my travel 
on the sea, exchanged my express checks and 
English gold for United States money, and am 
now on the train enroute for Boston. Reaching 
Boston on time, I took a surface car for the South 
Station, where I arrived a few minutes before my 
train was scheduled to leave, and I am now spin- 
ning along toward Xew York City. 

I arrived at the Grand Central Station in New 
York on time, and in a few minutes was on the 



AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 119 

train for Yonkers. My son had gone to the 
city to meet me and I am sure that I passed him 
on the way, which I regret very much. He did 
so much to make it possible for me to take this 
trip, and has contributed much to my enjoyment. 

Here I am in the city of Yonkers, and my son, 
Edward, insists on my staying at least two weeks. 

I have enjoyed my stay at Yonkers very much, 
visiting many places of interest in New York 
City, and also attending the Ecumenical Confer- 
ence of Missionaries. After this enjoyable visit 
I returned home, arriving April 27, 1900. 

How thankful I am for the kind care of God, 
and my safe return. I pray that my life may be 
better because of a larger experience, wider range 
of vision, and trust that I may be more conse- 
crated, and have more of the spirit of Him who 
went about doing good. 

"The earth is the Lord's, and the fullness 
thereof; the world and they that dwell therein." 



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